GET THE LOOK…THE KENSINGTON LONDON

From time to time, I love to indulge in an afternoon tea at the Kensington, served on gorgeous tableware by open fires in light-filled ground floor drawing rooms. Atmospherically, this is perhaps one of the best venues in London for afternoon tea! The menu features a great selection of teas and a choice of traditional favourites: delectable pastries, scrumptious scones, and tasty sandwiches.

The Kensington has been one of my favourite hotels in London for a long time. Situated in the heart of Kensington, this delightful hotel is full of charm and character. With its sleek contemporary interiors integrated into gorgeous Victorian architecture, the Kensington exudes timeless glamour.

JEWELLERY BY FREYWILLE

JACKET BY STELLA MCCARTNEY

SERPENTI FOREVER BAG BY BULGARI

JEANS AND SHIRT BY ZARA

SHOP THE LOOK:

LOEWE Elephant coin purse

LOEWE Elephant coin purse

Solange Hotlips Ring

Solange Hotlips Ring

SMYTHSON Mara croc-effect leather jewelry case

SMYTHSON Mara croc-effect leather jewelry case

Futuro Remoto Gioielli Earrings

Futuro Remoto Gioielli Earrings

Smythson Make It Happen Notebook

Smythson Make It Happen Notebook

Annoushka Mythology Globe Amulet

Annoushka Mythology Globe Amulet

Christian Louboutin Nail Polish

Christian Louboutin Nail Polish

Annoushka Alphabet Pendant

DIPTYQUE Tubéreuse scented candle

DIPTYQUE Tubéreuse scented candle

GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla features exquisite global discoveries, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews – a celebration of fine jewellery, fashion jewellery and vintage jewellery.

*Photographed at the Kensington by Julia Flit. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post GET THE LOOK…THE KENSINGTON LONDON appeared first on Gemologue.

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JEWELLERY STYLING TIPS VIDEO: HOW TO STYLE COSTUME JEWELLERY WITH IRADJ MOINI

If you are looking for jewellery styling tips and inspiration, I have it covered. Welcome to GEMOLOGUE jewellery styling video series: chic jewellery looks to inspire you based on the top tips from GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips book. Time to share beautiful jewellery in action!

1st Jewellery Look – Pearl Queen

With pearls and costume jewellery coming together, there’s no chance I would’ve missed creating this look! A hint of white and a trace of pearls in each jewel bring different styles together in one classy colour palette as you can never go wrong with white! People crave attention so they decorate themselves with fabulous and eye catching costume jewels, such as those of Iradj Moini.

“Aquamarine & Chalcedony Snake Cuff” with mother of pearl, Iradj Moini
“Star Choker” with aquamarine, amethyst, pearl, lemon quartz and Swarovski crystals, Iradj Moini

2nd Jewellery Look – Costume Statement

Jewellery is a great conversation starter, and Iradj Moini striking costume jewels say it all for you! Wear statement costume jewellery at weddings and evening events to create a stir and to add a playful touch to your evening dress. This works particularly well when dress code rules are strict: costume jewellery will make your outfit shine!

“Fall-Inspired Butterfly Cuff” with fluorite, agate, carnelian and emerald, Iradj Moini
“Aquamarine Branch Necklace” with aquamarine, ruby, Swarovski crystals and 18K gold-plated branches, Iradj Moini

3rd Jewellery Look – Coral Parure

Quality hand-made costume jewellery has become the embodiment of design and craftsmanship rather than intrinsically valuable materials. Since the crazy 1920s flappers styled their outfits with MANY trendy costume jewels of that time because they became widely available and more affordable than fine jewels. That’s why costume jewellery has no rules – and I love it! The more costume jewels you wear the better, and parures are also more than welcome. Just look at this coral set I’m wearing for your inspiration!

“Carnelian Tassel Earrings” with carnelian, lemon quartz, citrine, amethyst and Swarovski crystals, Iradj Moini
“Red Coral Bracelet” with treated coral, fluorite and lemon quartz, Iradj Moini
“Red Italian Coral Bead Choker” with Italian coral, treated coral, amethyst and lemon quartz, Iradj Moini

Thanks for stopping by! You can subscribe to GEMOLOGUE YouTube Channel for more jewellery styling videos, behind-the-scenes and jewellery events!

Which look of my jewellery styling video is your favourite? Let me know in the comments down below.

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post JEWELLERY STYLING TIPS VIDEO: HOW TO STYLE COSTUME JEWELLERY WITH IRADJ MOINI appeared first on Gemologue.

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JEWELLERY STYLING TIPS VIDEO: HOW TO STYLE COSTUME JEWELLERY WITH IRADJ MOINI

If you are looking for jewellery styling tips and inspiration, I have it covered. Welcome to GEMOLOGUE jewellery styling video series: chic jewellery looks to inspire you based on the top tips from GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips book. Time to share beautiful jewellery in action!

1st Jewellery Look – Pearl Queen

With pearls and costume jewellery coming together, there’s no chance I would’ve missed creating this look! A hint of white and a trace of pearls in each jewel bring different styles together in one classy colour palette as you can never go wrong with white! People crave attention so they decorate themselves with fabulous and eye catching costume jewels, such as those of Iradj Moini.

“Aquamarine & Chalcedony Snake Cuff” with mother of pearl, Iradj Moini
“Star Choker” with aquamarine, amethyst, pearl, lemon quartz and Swarovski crystals, Iradj Moini

2nd Jewellery Look – Costume Statement

Jewellery is a great conversation starter, and Iradj Moini striking costume jewels say it all for you! Wear statement costume jewellery at weddings and evening events to create a stir and to add a playful touch to your evening dress. This works particularly well when dress code rules are strict: costume jewellery will make your outfit shine!

“Fall-Inspired Butterfly Cuff” with fluorite, agate, carnelian and emerald, Iradj Moini
“Aquamarine Branch Necklace” with aquamarine, ruby, Swarovski crystals and 18K gold-plated branches, Iradj Moini

3rd Jewellery Look – Coral Parure

Quality hand-made costume jewellery has become the embodiment of design and craftsmanship rather than intrinsically valuable materials. Since the crazy 1920s flappers styled their outfits with MANY trendy costume jewels of that time because they became widely available and more affordable than fine jewels. That’s why costume jewellery has no rules – and I love it! The more costume jewels you wear the better, and parures are also more than welcome. Just look at this coral set I’m wearing for your inspiration!

“Carnelian Tassel Earrings” with carnelian, lemon quartz, citrine, amethyst and Swarovski crystals, Iradj Moini
“Red Coral Bracelet” with treated coral, fluorite and lemon quartz, Iradj Moini
“Red Italian Coral Bead Choker” with Italian coral, treated coral, amethyst and lemon quartz, Iradj Moini

Thanks for stopping by! You can subscribe to GEMOLOGUE YouTube Channel for more jewellery styling videos, behind-the-scenes and jewellery events!

Which look of my jewellery styling video is your favourite? Let me know in the comments down below.

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post JEWELLERY STYLING TIPS VIDEO: HOW TO STYLE COSTUME JEWELLERY WITH IRADJ MOINI appeared first on Gemologue.

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How to Pick Solder in the Jewelry Studio

I pick solder jump rings, earring posts, chain links, and any other fragile findings. This is a great technique to learn and one that will really help with delicate pieces. There are three main soldering techniques and each one has its place. Learn the best method to choose for each soldering job.

Standard jewelry soldering
Standard soldering
Standard soldering: Place the solder onto the join itself and then heat until the solder flows into the join. This is the basic way to solder that is most widely used for different kinds of jewelry pieces.
Sweat soldering: Two-step heating process. First, melt the solder onto the first piece of metal then place the 1st piece of metal onto the second piece of metal that you’d like it to solder to. Second, heat both pieces until the solder flows and joins the two metals together. Sweat soldering is ideal for joining an embellishment to flat metal sheet, or other jobs where you don’t want the solder to be visible on the jewelry piece.
Sweat soldering
Sweat Soldering

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Pick soldering: Heat the piece of solder until it melts into a ball, pick it up using your soldering pick, place the ball of solder on your join and heat it until the solder flows. Pick soldering is ideal for delicate pieces that you could overheat or melt altogether.

Understanding Pick Soldering

Since the melting of the solder is done off to the side, this process keeps the majority of the heat off the finding itself. Because the heat is directed away from the metal, this is an excellent soldering technique for fragile pieces.  When you pick up the ball of solder and move it to your piece, keep the heat on that ball of solder the entire time. That keeps the solder from cooling down and once you place it on the join, you don’t need to heat up the material too much before the solder flows.

Steps to Pick Soldering

At the bottom of this post, you’ll find a video that will show you the process overview. However, there are a few steps I’d like to cover with you first:

Step 1: Be sure that your metals are thoroughly clean of all oil, dirt, and grime. A light wiping using an 800 grit sandpaper at the soldering points will work just fine, however, refrain from touching the areas once they’ve been sanded clean. Body oil from your fingerprints can interfere with solder flow.

Step 2: The pieces being soldered must fit together tightly. It’s imperative that they touch or you won’t get a secure, soldered connection at the join.

Tip:

Since flux acts as it’s own barrier, use a small paintbrush to dab the flux directly on the join prior to soldering.

Step 3: Keep the heat on the ball of solder after you pick it up with the soldering pick, then lightly heat the metal around it so that the solder will flow quickly.

Step 4: Use the smallest torch tip or flame size that you can. That pinpoints the heat more onto the ball of solder rather than the delicate findings that you may be working with.

Pick soldering will work with almost any type of jewelry solder whether its pallion chips, wire or sheet. When the solder melts, regardless of the shape it started in, it will ball up. Keep in mind that you’ll still want to use the appropriate amount of solder so clean-up is at a minimum during the finishing process.

Watch the video below, to see pick soldering in action!

Read the articles below for additional soldering tips,  tricks, and instructions!

5 Steps to Start Silver Soldering

3 Torch Tips for Soldering

6 Steps to Soldering Earring Posts

Fancy Jewelry Wires: Shaping & Soldering Wire Links

Soldering Half Round Wire & Pattern Wire For Rings

The post How to Pick Solder in the Jewelry Studio appeared first on Halstead Jewelry Articles.

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Soldering Wire Embellishments to the Surface of your Jewelry Designs

Soldering wire embellishments to the surface of your jewelry designs can really get your creative mind flowing. Whether it’s geometric or organic, round, straight or zigzag, wire shapes can add some fun to your designs. Soldering wire can be intimidating at first. Some wire is thick and difficult to shape while other wires are thin and fragile; however, it’s rewarding to feel the satisfaction you’ll have after finishing a piece successfully. Nonetheless, there are certain things you should be aware of when adding wire embellishments:

  1. The wire must lay flush against the sheet’s surface.
  2. You can not use rotary tools with abrasive wheels on the wire. It removes parts of the wire in seconds and can quickly damage your piece.
  3. Sweat soldering works great especially on the thinner wire (you can watch a sweat soldering demo video at the bottom of this article).

Wire Embellishments

Soldering with Wire

14kt-Gold-Wire
In this project, I sweat soldered 14kt gold wire pieces onto a round 20 gauge sterling silver blank. The key when soldering wire is to control the amount of solder because if you use too much you’ll have a lot of tricky cleaning to do at the end.

Note:

I’m using an air/acetylene torch with a Smith set-up and the #0 torch tip. This #0 torch tip is very small so I can focus the heat better on the tiny wire embellishments on this piece.

Choosing the Soldering Material

I chose to use gold plumb solder in this case.  Plumb solders are a color match for 14kt yellow gold items so I knew the colors would match perfectly, however, using gold solder in this instance also created a longer cleanup where the solder flowed out from under the wires. But, I prefer to clean the gold solder off of the sterling silver blank than clean the silver solder off of the fragile gold wire embellishments.

If you choose to use silver solder with sterling silver wire and sheet, I would still suggest cleaning the solder off of the sheet rather than possibly damaging the jewelry wire.

Note:

Click here to find out all about the Types of Silver Solder Used in Jewelry. It’s full of important information and fun facts.

Choosing the Right Type of Solder

14KYH Easy Gold Plumb Solder Pallion Chips
Since these wire embellishments are so narrow I knew I would have to use pallion chips. Wire or sheet solder would have been too much. After choosing the type of solder, I still had to choose the melting temperature and since I had used medium solder previously for the ornament, I used easy solder for this round. Our easy solder melts at 1265 degrees, which is quick enough to protect the wire pieces yet low enough to avoid reflowing the previous join under the ornament in the center. I took the smallest pallion chips in the studio and used one per piece of wire.

Note:

Check out this blog post to decorate your pieces with solder ornaments. As you can see in the image of this piece, there is a sterling silver solder ornament in the center. You can see how that was done, using the sweat soldering technique at How to Solder 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver.

The Importance of Prepping

Prepping is key to getting a great solder join. Not only do you need to remove all of the oils and dirt, but you also need a tight connection. If I’m working with round wire, I always flatten one side by running it back and forth across 800 grit sandpaper. This will allow a wider soldering surface between the join.

What you’ll need:

  • Ruler
  • Wire cutters
  • Torch
  • Pickle
  • Pickle pot
  • Quench bowl
  • Soldering pick
  • Tweezers
  • Copper tongs
  • Soldering board
  • 3rd hands
  • Flux
  • Sandpaper (800 grit)
  • Easy 14KYH gold easy plumb solder (pallion chips) (9 pcs)
  • 20ga sterling silver blank (1 pc)
  • 20ga, 14kt gold wire (2 3/4in)
  • Letter stamping set (optional)
  • Hole punch or drill bit (optional)
  • Finishing tools
  • and most importantly safety gear (apron and safety glasses)

Soldering Steps

Note: Adjust any of the materials above for the item you want to create. These are very specific steps for the sunburst pendant shown above.

Step 1: Use the ruler to measure the lengths of wire. I cut two = 1/2″ pieces, two = 3/8″ pieces, two = 1/4″ pieces, two = 3/16″ pieces and  one = 1/8″ piece. Cut the 14kt gold wire using wire cutters.

Step 2: Take each piece of wire and using the 800 grit sandpaper, slightly flatten one side of each piece.

Step 3: Place the 14kt gold wire pieces on a soldering board about 1 inch apart. Flux them and place one tiny pallion chip in the center of each piece of wire. Light the torch and put it in your non-dominant hand. With the soldering pick in your dominant hand slowly focus on heating one piece of wire at a time.

Tip:

Keep your torch moving at all times running it back and forth along the length of wire. and at the same time, move slowly in with the torch, to heat the flux at a distance. By doing this, the flux will slowly dry which will prevent the pallion chip from bubbling off.

Step 4: Remove the flame as soon as the pallion chip melts and flows across the wire.

Step 5: In the next step, you’ll want to heat this from underneath not from overhead. This is important. You can achieve this by using a tripod or a 3rd hand tool. Since solder moves towards the heat source, you want the solder to flow down off the wire and onto the blank. If you were to heat it from above, the solder would run up and over the wire skipping the blank altogether.

Step 6: Flux the blank and place each wire where you would like it in your design. Next, light the torch and this time heat the piece from underneath with the flame hitting the bottom of the sterling silver blank. Carefully move the flame in slowly to prevent the flux from bubbling up and moving your wire pieces. If any of the wires move out of place, use the soldering pick to nudge them back into place before the solder flows.

Step 7: Once the solder flows, let the piece air cool for a couple of minutes. Once it’s cool, drop it into a pickle pot using the copper tongs. When the sterling silver blank is clean of firescale, pull it from the pickle pot with copper tongs and quench it in water and then dry it.

Step 8: You can now use finishing tools. To remove any extra gold solder from the blank, use a flex shaft with 3M bristle disks or a sandpaper set. Be careful not to touch the wires because it just takes a little bit of sanding over the 14kt gold wires to deform them.

Step 9: Add a punched hole for cold connecting your piece as a pendant or link and/or stamp it now, if you’d like.

Have fun adding wire embellishments to your jewelry making designs!

If you’re new to soldering, we have a bestselling beginner’s soldering kit. This kit is loaded with many of the tools used in this project and is handy if you’re just starting out.

To find out more about soldering (including tips & tricks) you may find these articles very helpful:

5 Steps to Start Silver Soldering

3 Torch Tips for Soldering

Tips for Chain End Finishing

6 Steps to Soldering Earring Posts

Fancy Jewelry Wires: Shaping & Soldering Wire Links

Soldering Half Round Wire & Pattern Wire For Rings

The post Soldering Wire Embellishments to the Surface of your Jewelry Designs appeared first on Halstead Jewelry Articles.

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THE CRAFTSMANSHIP OF ARA VARTANIAN: HOW KATE MOSS EMERALD EARRINGS CAME TO LIFE

We all love the sparkle and lustre of a beautiful jewel, but have you ever wondered how each piece is created from start to finish? GEMOLOGUE is bringing you the craftsmanship series aiming to educate and give you an appreciation of the process and how a spectacular jewel comes to life. While other sectors of industry are losing manual skills to automation, jewellery-making stands true its ancestry. I particularly love brands that invest in age-old jewellery-making workshops, conserving traditional techniques and perfecting new ones. THE CRAFTSMANSHIP OF… series will feature design elements, craftsmanship and the labour of love behind every jewel.

Discover THE CRAFTSMANSHIP OF…  Ara Vartanian and how these emerald earrings made for Kate Moss came to life!

ARA VARTANIAN

I caught up with Ara Vartanian in his Sao Paulo studio in Brazil. He comes from a long family tradition of fine jewellery-makers, but his vision is more audacious and his unique, bold style ignores market trends. There are 40 people working at the Vartanian showroom and atelier in Sao Paulo, and the workshop is literally three metres from his desk. Vartanian believes it’s important for the team to be able to work in close proximity to each other. You need a close working relationship with the craftsmen, because everything is handmade and everyone is using different techniques and working on different steps of the process.

INSPIRATION BEHIND THE JEWEL

It is Ara’s interpretation of the gemstones that feeds his inspiration to create unique jewellery. Stones are emblematic creations with great visual impact, and “each stone is singular, by the very principle of geological uniqueness.” Capturing the essence of each stone, Ara imagines the jewellery in his drawings:

“It’s not just the beauty of the stones, the challenge is making the piece comfortable to wear. It’s a challenge and I’m always curious to see the outcome. What’s the best way to use these jewels? Each piece is unique, a one-off. So these jewels are not part of a collection. It’s actually a piece I made for Kate Moss for an event we went to together.”

Ara draws all his designs by hand, making an exact technical drawing of the piece. He imagines the proportion of the piece,  adding lines and triangles to distribute weight, all of which influences his design. But the stones always come first. The technical sketch is then sent to the workshop to prepare the elements for the entire design to come to life.

DESIGN PROCESS

The stones are delicately and carefully analysed before the creative process begins. Ara felt the best option for these stones were a pair of earrings because the emeralds were such a perfect set. They are large and heavy emeralds, so comfort was an utmost concern. Ara chose a certain style of hook to balance the weight of the stones. It allows for movement and doesn’t pull on the ear. Together with the diamonds, the complete piece is quite large, but it wears extremely well.

Ara has been working with his craftsmen long enough that they understand how he works. But each step in the jewellery-making must be precise and followed with intense accuracy. This process starts with a metal alloy adjusted with high precision torches and tools to create the structure for the jewellery piece. Each stone requires a case for the setting and these are made by hand. They are then rough polished, rhodium plated and soldered together before the setters set the stones. Setting is done with hand tools under a microscope, then laser-soldered as heat could damage an emerald. After a final, delicate polishing of the stones, the setting is complete.

Four to six people were involved in making these emerald earrings: the designer, the goldsmith, the setter, the polisher, the engraver and sometimes the cutter. Or we should say seven people if you include Sabrina, Ara’s wife, who gets the lucky task of trying on the jewellery for the first time!

Every piece is numbered on the back by engraving. The number indicates the whole DNA of the piece, which is catalogued together with photographs of Ara designing the jewellery.  If you have proof it was made and designed in his atelier, it will fetch a higher price at auction 30 years down the line and can be passed down through the generations.

GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger Liza_jewelry blogger Liza_jewelry blog_jewellery blog UK_jewellery blog London_blog about jewellery_ara vartanian earrings_ara vartanian emerald earrings_ara vartanian jewelry_ara vartanian kate moss_how diamond jewellery is made_how diamond jewelry is made_hook drop earrings_zambian emerald earrings

CRAFTSMANSHIP

Inverted Diamonds – There are a lot of Ara’s signature techniques in these emerald earrings. The invertedly set diamonds and grey diamonds are very unusual and avant-garde and all part of Ara’s signature style.

Hook – To balance the weight of the emeralds, Ara used his technique of hook earrings which are made in gold and covered in gems. The hook style works with the angles and movement of the piece. The stones control the piece and dominate the overall design because all the settings are hidden behind.

CRAFTSMEN

It’s been 13 years since Ara moved into this workshop and over the years, he noticed some friction between the goldsmiths and setters, because one tended to damage the work of the other. So Ara changed the process and suggested they work together and focus on the beauty of the final piece, which is the main objective. The team members are dependent on each other. The designer sources the stones, but without the craftsmen, the piece wouldn’t come alive. It’s a collaborative environment and the designer is like a soccer coach: he doesn’t play like the players, but he designs and learns from the inner process. Ara loves working with the machines, discovering breakthrough techniques, and being a part of all the important stages.

GEMSTONES & GOLD

These emeralds came from a set of large Zambian emeralds that were recut. Large, round emeralds are quite rare. This fact motivated Ara Vartanian to work with this particular cut. He found the colour particularly inspiring and beautiful. Ara trusts his supplier who guarantees ethically mined gems.

The precious metal used in these emerald earrings was white and yellow gold purchased from the Gold Exchange in Sao Paulo. Rhodium can’t be used in settings with emeralds because they’re too fragile and the rhodium can affect them.

Thanks for stopping by! What do you think of these beautiful emerald earrings and how they were created? Leave me a message in the comments below.

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Photographed by Liza Urla. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post THE CRAFTSMANSHIP OF ARA VARTANIAN: HOW KATE MOSS EMERALD EARRINGS CAME TO LIFE appeared first on Gemologue.

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10 JEWELLERY INDUSTRY TRENDS TO KNOW: LIZA URLA TALK AT FENINJER, SAO PAULO

Brazil, here I come again! Last time I visited Sao Paulo, we shot the campaign for Botanica jewellery collection for Silvia Furmanovich. I am back in Brazil to celebrate my Gemologue: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips book launch with my Brazilian followers and jewellery lovers alike.

Recently, I was invited to give a talk at Feninjer Jewelry Show Brazil – the largest and most important jewellery industry event in Latin America! This month, Feninjer brought together industry professionals, designers and jewellery lovers for the 69th time in Sao Paulo. Along with five other speakers, I shared my knowledge on the current hot topics and trends in the jewellery industry!

I gave a talk followed by a Q&A session about why jewellery should matter today and shared useful jewellery styling tips for photography as well as for accessorising looks. I also talked through some important trends and tendencies the jewellery market is experiencing right now!

Below are 10 current jewellery industry trends we all should be aware of:

DIGITAL & SECOND-HAND

Traditionally reluctant to fully embrace digital retail, manufacturers and retailers are gradually changing their approach, selling directly to consumers, selling online and through second hand jewellery websites. The share of internet jewellery retailing is set to increase further.

TECHNOLOGY

From product development such as 3D printing and to distribution, digitalisation is the most important trend shaping jewellery industry.

SUSTAINABILITY

Consumers and press started to question where jewellery comes from and how it is made — Fairtrade gold, lab grown diamonds, ethically-sourced stones. More and more consumers are curious about the provenance of each piece of jewellery they buy.

SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS

There is growing appreciation of synthetic diamonds. Man-made diamonds, the polar opposite of the organic, benefit the environment, humanity, science and art and are becoming a major concept.

CONSUMER LOYALTY AND CONFIDENCE

There has been an increase in numbers of boutiques, showrooms or pop ups because when it comes to purchasing jewellery consumers want to see and feel before buying. For jewellery brands  and online shops which are primarily online, the main focus is to reinforce consumer loyalty and confidence.

FOCUS NOT ONLY ON MILLENNIALS

While it is important to think about millennials and understand how to keep your business relevant to the next generation of consumers, let’s not forget consumers aged 35-50 have a stronger spending power and desire for authenticity.

SOCIAL PRESSURE

Jewellery sales are set to increase because there is a social pressure to look trendy and good. Social media is playing a major role in this as it makes women more aware of fashion, jewellery and image.

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

Despite the success of mass-produced high-street fashion, there is a growing demand for personalised and unique jewellery.

AFFORDABLE LUXURY

Demi-fine jewellery and costume jewellery are popular not only among consumers on tighter budgets, but also appeal to the younger jewellery lovers, looking to buy jewellery more often and on-trend.

COSTUME JEWELLERY

The blurring line between fine and costume jewellery using precious metals, refined design and a affordable pricing.

Thank you to all my Brazilian followers and talk guests, who came to support me at this event, I was so happy to see the sparkle in your eyes and your endless enthusiasm for the world of jewellery!

Join me at my next talk I will give together with The Jewellery Cut during London Fashion week on 18th February 2019! Click this link to get your ticket – only a few left!

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post 10 JEWELLERY INDUSTRY TRENDS TO KNOW: LIZA URLA TALK AT FENINJER, SAO PAULO appeared first on Gemologue.

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8 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SCANDI JEWELLERY STYLE, WITH THE JEWELLERY ROOM IN COPENHAGEN

Gone are the days of long and indulgent overseas travel. Today’s traveller prefers a mini-break lasting no more than 24 to 48 hours. It’s just enough time to immerse yourself in a new culture and change your outlook on life. That’s exactly what happened to me during Copenhagen Fashion Week, which is at the forefront of the Scandi jewellery trend. I was excited about learning more of this trend and layering myself in some expressive Scandi-style jewellery.

Behind this Scandi Cool Jewellery trend are sisters and founders, Pernille and Charlotte Møbjerg, who I caught up with at The Jewellery Room to get a glimpse of the most coveted Scandinavian jewellery brands at Copenhagen Fashion Week.

As part of this honour, I was delighted to tour the workshop and atelier of the great Scandinavian jewellery house Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, the Appointed jewellery designer for The Royal Danish Court. Here I learned the magic behind the Ole Lynggaard signature snake design, which I’m excited to share with you on GEMOLOGUE.

Afterwards, I made my way to the stylish Hotel Sanders in the historic centre of the city to talk more about Scandi jewellery with the lovely Pernille and Charlotte. It was an amazing day! Jewellery conversation to feed our souls and a splendid dinner by Sushi Lovers & Geranium afterwards at the newly launched Paustian Concept Store to nourish our bodies. I was surrounded by warm, happy energy and a room full of excited and hungry jewellery designers, bloggers, and press, eager to celebrate jewellery, art, and artisanship, and our fantastic hosts, Pernille & Charlotte Møbjerg.

The next day was an extravaganza of jewellery at The Jewellery Room Exhibition situated in the Danish auction house, Bruun Rasmussen. I was about to discover 20 contemporary Scandi designers and jewellery brands and change my perception of Scandi jewellery forever. I was thinking minimalistic, delicate and wearable. But the lovely founders of The Jewellery Room opened up my mind with their incredible selection of featured Scandi fine jewellery pieces. Travelling is a precious discovery of exciting, unchartered territory. I can’t wait to show you more and introduce you to my favourite brands,Vibe Harsloef, Pilgrim, LINE&JO.

My 24 hours were almost up. I had just enough time to head over to Shamballa Jewels and lunch with fellow globetrotter and co-founder, Mads Kornerup to learn more about Scandi jewellery. Lots of exciting things happening in this corner of Denmark that I can’t wait to return next year for the big reveal of their next project. Stay tuned!

Here are some of the things I discovered about Scandi jewellery during my 24 hours in Copenhagen.

8 THINGS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SCANDI JEWELLERY STYLE

Clean Lines

Clean lines and modern sophistication is the kind of style we’ve come to know and love from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. Borne out of Constructivism, Functionalism, Minimalism and Surrealism, Scandinavian design has made its mark on jewellery as well. Expect to see bold, daring and unusual designs in precious gold metalwork that shout extreme fashion. Statement diamonds and gemstones give way to clean, soft designs with pearls popping up as a favourite in many pieces. Clean lines dominate shape, design, and form in Scandi jewellery.

Commitment to craftsmanship

Denmark holds a rich tradition of goldsmithing and incredible craftsmanship with a strong aesthetic. Scandi jewellery designers love to experiment with unusual forms and creations. Every single line and curve of this handmade jewellery comes to life in the skilled hands of local artisan craftspeople.

Less is more

The Danes are the first to tell you that their modest country has remained largely untouched by foreign and international influence. Having to rely on their own resources, they’ve developed a strong and confident style and a ‘less is more’ attitude to life. Scandi jewellery picks up on these inherent qualities. It’s never pretentious, always eye-pleasing and incredibly tactile. Understated luxury at its best.

Nature motifs

Scandi jewellery and the people who wear it express a perfectly natural style, inspired by the beauty of natural textures. They love pearls almost as much as I do, drawing inspiration from the miracle that creates these beautiful jewels. You can find more pearl inspiration in my gift guide on GEMOLOGUE.

Hygge

Hygge is a Danish word for that special feeling you get during those moments of absolute bliss, when all the stresses of the outside world disappear. For me, Hygge is coziness and absolute relaxation, the kind of balance you feel when you wear fine, delicate Scandi jewellery. It also reminds you to appreciate the little things life has to offer with Scandinavian minimalist jewellery.

“It’s in the culture and in all that surrounds us. The sea, the nature and society are rooted deeply in the minimalistic way of living” – Charlotte Møbjerg

Layering and Stacking

Scandi cool jewellery was made for stacking and layering, with its varied transformations of simple metal jewels. How you mix and match these Scandi fine jewels will define your own individual style. Scandinavians are very good at putting their own twist on a look, especially layering. Get more tips on mastering the art of necklace layering from GEMOLOGUE.

“Fashion might show your style, jewellery is where you add the personality! You might wear what is trending just now, but your personal touch is the jewellery you add to it. This is also, why, jewellery is becoming a more and more important part of a “look” … like we mix H&M, Zara with Isabel Marant or Gucci, we now also mix Cartier with Pandora or Monica Vinader” – Pernille Møbjerg

Modern Woman in Mind

Another beautiful aspect of Scandi jewellery is that it’s made for everyday. I’d describe it as stylish practicality for the modern woman who cares about the planet, who is always on the go, chasing her dreams, looking fabulous and chic regardless. Sophisticated but laidback at the same time. Uncomplicated and easy to wear.

“Jewellery ALWAYS has a story to tell and jewellery lasts. It can be passed on to generations – and both story telling and “not fast consuming” play a bigger and bigger role in the values that we bring forward to our youth and kids” – Pernille Møbjerg

Sustainable And Fair Trade

Sustainability is the focus of Copenhagen Fashion Week 2019. Within the fashion and Scandi jewellery world, you’ll find more and more design houses and Scandi jewellery brands caring about social responsibility and fair trade practices.

Thanks for stopping by! Do you like Scandinavian modernist jewellery? Let me know in the comments below! If you like jewellery events & fairs, you might also like yo discover my articles from Jewellery Arabia Bahrain and Masterpiece London!

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post 8 THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT SCANDI JEWELLERY STYLE, WITH THE JEWELLERY ROOM IN COPENHAGEN appeared first on Gemologue.

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How to Sweat Solder 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver

For this article, I’d like to show you how to sweat solder 14kt gold soldering ornaments onto sterling silver blanks. Sweat soldering is a wonderful technique to learn. When you sweat solder you have more control of the solder, the heat, and there’s less clean-up. This technique will quickly become a favorite of yours if you’re just starting out.

Adding 14kt gold soldering ornaments really make a sterling silver piece stand out!

Let me first start by saying, that we’ve recently added dozens of soldering ornaments to our inventory. Since normally I work almost exclusively with sterling silver, it has been a lot of fun adding 14kt gold soldering ornaments into the mix. Now, there are many positive benefits to adding these gold findings. The mixed metals look beautiful, it also adds value to your jewelry designs while at the same time, the ornaments are inexpensive to purchase. The combination of these benefits truly makes it worthwhile.

Since I’ve had the opportunity to play around with these new findings, it’s given me plenty of soldering time. The first thing that I needed to decide on was what solder to use, gold or silver? I found both worked well, however, I felt that silver solder looked cleaner around the bottom of the 14kt gold ornament. The faint ring at the bottom of the ornament popped when it was a gold solder but blended when it was a silver solder. Having said that, I did choose the silver solder, but the choice is yours.

The next important choice to make was which solder to use. Since there are several types of silver solder in jewelry which one was the right one? Pallion chips? Wire? Sheet? It all depends on the size of the ornament you are soldering onto. Once it melts the solder spreads, and on an item like our small ornaments you need a tiny piece of solder. So I chose one medium pallion chip for the job.  When melted it spread just enough to create a tiny hump under the ornament and when it spread it created the nice ring around the ornaments edge. If I had chosen wire, the solder piece would have spread too far and forced me to have to clean up the excess solder.

Let’s walk through the steps on how to sweat solder. There’s also a video at the bottom of the article, which shows you the soldering set-up and process as well.

What you’ll need:

  • Torch
  • Pickle
  • Pickle pot
  • Quench bowl
  • Soldering pick
  • Tweezers
  • Copper tongs
  • Soldering board
  • 3rd hands or a tripod
  • Flux
  • Medium Solder
  • Sandpaper (800 grit)
  • Sterling silver blanks
  • Soldering ornaments (14kt gold)
  • and most importantly safety gear (apron and safety glasses)

Sweat Soldering Steps

  1. Clean your pieces with the 800 grit sandpaper, this process will remove any oil and dirt. You will want to sand in the areas where the solder will be. In this case, the solder sits in between the sterling silver blank and the soldering ornament charm. So lightly sand the top of the blank and the bottom of the ornament. Note: Make sure you don’t touch the sanded areas after you’re finished cleaning them. 
  2. Place your ornament upside down on top of a soldering board (clean side up). Placing your solder
  3. Flux, then place a small piece of medium solder in the center of it.
  4. Turn the torch on and begin to heat the piece slowly by moving your torch in a wide circle around the ornament. This will prevent the solder from popping off while the flux dries. If it does pop off just nudge it back into place with the soldering pick. Once the flux turns white, bring the flame in and heat the ornament, keeping your flame moving the entire time. Note: Always hold your torch in your non-dominant hand, and hold the soldering pick in your dominant hand.Melting solder
  5. Once the solder melts (don’t allow it to flow yet), remove the heat and let it air cool. Note: If you are soldering a sterling silver ornament, go ahead and pickle, quench and dry it at this point.
  6. Place your sterling silver blank into a 3rd hand (sanded side up) and raise it high enough to heat it from underneath.
  7. Flux, then begin heating it from underneath. Adjusting with a soldering pick
  8. Using the tweezers, carefully place the ornament (solder side down) onto the sterling silver blank (it should be fairly warm now so use caution). Make any adjustments to the ornament by using your soldering pick. Soldering 14kt gold
  9. Once the solder flows, you will see the ornament drop flat down onto the sterling silver blank or you will see the solder flow just under the ornament.
  10. Let it air cool.
  11. Drop it into the pickle until the firescale is removed and the sterling silver is clean, remove using copper tongs.
  12. Quench it in water and dry.

Shop at Halstead to find all of the jewelry findings and tools listed in this article.

Here are a few inspirational soldering articles :

5 Steps to Start Silver Soldering

Making Chain With Jill MacKay

Soldering Half Round Wire & Pattern Wire For Rings

Instructables Article: Granulation in Jewelry: From Start to Finish

Keep up with our Halstead articles with weekly updates to your inbox!

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The post How to Sweat Solder 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver appeared first on Halstead Jewelry Blog.

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Jewelry Collection Stories: Emily of @GemCircus

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We are kicking off July with an incredible jewelry collection story from Emily, also known as @GemCircus. If you’re a part of the jewelry Instagram community, you’ll easily recognize some of the jaw-dropping pieces in Emily’s personal collection. From the way she styles her necklace layers, to ring stacks, arm parties, and everything in between, we love her taste and enthusiasm for antique jewelry. I’m so excited she has agreed to share her story with us, so let’s sit back and enjoy:

My love for vintage and antique collecting started when I was a teenager, after my family moved to Vancouver, Canada, from Hong Kong in the early 1990s. I remember it was July when we arrived and I would walk to the nearby library every other day to borrow books to read (our container didn’t arrive almost a month later so all I have in my room were merely a bed, a built-in closet and my backpack). I started to notice our neighbours’ garage sales in my walks and I was amused at the things people were selling – from snow cone machines to music records, jewelry to stuff toys. That summer of looking through other people’s belongings and engaging in rapports gave me a sense of belonging and connection to the community. Ever since then I have become a frequent visitor to community flea markets, thrift shops and antique shows.

My jewelry obsession started around early twenties with vintage jewelry, in particular charms and silver filigree bracelets. I love to style them on mixed metal chains and I still love styling them now.

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

I wasn’t picky and didn’t have a favourite period at that time so I usually picked up quirky little things like brooches, pins, jewel “plaques” (which I found out they were called “clasps” later) etc. Even though my collecting seemed to be random at that time, I was already drawn to jewelry that have motifs, like this brass crescent with hand and arrow and the clasped hand ring that I found in a thrift store. Looking back, I believe my love for antique sentimental jewelry originates from this pair!

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

A lot of my Instagram followers already knew that I adore Georgian and Victorian sentimental and mourning jewelry, as well as portrait jewelry. This probably relates to my “innate sensitiveness” (as Carl Jung coined it) and the way I see jewelry as not merely an adornment but also a medium for expression, an art, an identity of who we are.

After I started reading books on lover’s eye, portrait miniature and mourning jewelry, I became obsessed with researching stories behind the jewelry that I collect. I realized that the brass crescent and the hand motif ring are not ‘funky little things’ as I thought in my teenage days, they actually carry specific meanings – love, new relationship and friendship – in the Victorian era. As my jewelry collection matures over time, I began to search for jewelry with motifs or meanings, like the urn, masquerade (masked lady), hand (figa, clasped hand, claddagh), heart (double-heart, flaming heart), star and crescent, buckle, swallow, snake, fern, acoutistic (“REGARD” and “DEAREST”) and Halley’s comet etc.

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I like to think that every piece of antique jewelry carries its own story of those before us, and I’m a custodian carrying on its legacy while creating my story with my collection. I love styling and always try to mix and match, experiment with different stacking and mixed metal, and do simple conversions to make every piece wearable. You can see from my Instagram photos that I’ve worn a big opal crescent brooch with another monkey brooch in the middle, stacked seven Art Deco wedding bands to make a statement ring, wrapped my wrist with antique chains and added a micromosaic brooch on top, stacked an Art Deco paste bracelet with a Hermes red enamel bangle, wore brooches on hats, and layered antique gold chains with watch chains. The fun is endless!

I shop everywhere but recently it’s largely online as there aren’t any antique jewelry shops in Hong Kong. I love the Instagram community as I’ve met so many wonderful souls (many of whom have become friends for life) around the world that share my obsession in antique jewelry. I always visit antique and jewelry shops when I travel too. It has been a tradition to bring back a piece of jewelry from each city that I visit.

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

One of my obsession is Georgian masquerade jewelry: masked lady ring with ruby bonnet and rose cut diamonds from @karendeakin.antiques ; locket from @abrandtandson and the most recently acquired oval ring from @bijouxvictim

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

Ring stacking is a daily essential for me: Georgian blue enamel rose cut diamond urn ring from @lenoredailey ; the moonstone on the mourning ring was a gift from my jeweler in Vancouver (he has kept it for 40 years!) and it fits perfectly on the bezel of the once empty mourning ring; flat cut garnet band from @antiqueanimaljewelry

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

Mourning rings and figas: these enamel mourning rings are too big to wear so I usually wear them on gold chains as pendants. The twin coral figas were acquired from different continents yet they look so much alike. The one with emerald and diamonds was found in a UK auction and the one with seed pearl top was found in an antique show in Vancouver.

xoxoGemGossip

WANT MORE? Check out the other Jewelry Collection Stories

You can follow Emily –> @GemCircus

Source: GossipGem.com

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