PRECIOUS ENCOUNTER : WWAKE


Wing Yau, designer of WWAKE whose collection has just been launched in our Mont Thabor boutique has answered our “Precious” questionnaire. After a childhood spent in South America, she settled in New York and launched her brand of gold jewellery and asymmetrically set gemstones. She quickly became recognized by the fashion industry being a 2015 CFDA finalist and ranked in 2016 among the 30 most influential people under 30 year-old by Forbes.

What is your first jewellery memory ?

My family went to Papua New Guinea when I was a child and during this trip I purchased a woven bead necklace from a local craftswoman at the market. It had red, green, yellow and black seed beads woven into a basket­shaped pendant and I loved it very much ­ the work was extremely intricate, it was like nothing I had seen before. I spent hours and years observing how it was made, it was a very special piece that I still think of often.

What’s the first piece that you designed ?

The first piece of fine jewelry I designed was actually a series of delicate gold rings with graphic shapes. When I first started, my focus was on opposites: I wanted to make rings without center stone, and, rather than a single ring with a single formation forever, I wanted the wearer to create their own composition from multiple rings. The combinations were endless and created the core concept of what WWAKE has become today.

What is your favorite stone ? Why ?

The opal! It is a mysterious stone, a world within itself. I find its variation in colors, its unpredictable iridescence and its myth that it can help you turn invisible.

Do you have a piece of jewellery that you wear all year­round?

A simple pinky ring and my linear chain necklaces never come off!

Who are your favorite jewellery designers?

Elsa Peretti, Bibi Van der Velden and Fernando Jorge 🙂

What are your greatest design influences ?

My background in sculpture from Rhode Island School of Design and studying the works of Lynda Benglis, Richard Serra, Donald Judd, and Robert Smithson to name a few.

What do you listen to in your studio ?

Julie Byrne, Arthur Russell, the Smashing Pumpkins, Okay Kaya.

If you weren’t a jewellery designer, what would you do ?

A florist!

Which famous people (living or dead) inspire you the most ?

Kate Bush and Patti Smith.

What is your dream destination ?

The Faroe Islands!

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GET THE LOOK…LONDON FASHION WEEK 2017

As soon as I landed in London from Sao Paolo, I sorted out my smashed car window, pulled myself together and made my way to London Fashion week. I brought much needed Brazilian sunshine with me to London by wearing a bright yellow dress. My favourite brands – who I have already featured on GEMOLOGUE – were showing at LFW this season: Paul Costelloe, Roksanda, Erdem, Sophie Webster, Emilia Wickstead, Joseph, OSMAN, Julien Macdonald and A.W.A.K.E.

I also caught up with jewellery designers (and discovered some new ones) showcasing their collection at Designers Showroom such as Zohra Rahman, Alexandrine Ni, Alighieri, Allison Bryan, AMBRA Fine Jewellery, Ana Thompson,  charXchen, Chupi, Civilian London, DaisyKnights, Daou jewellery, Dea Jewellery, Frances Wadsworth Jones, GFG Jewellery, Hargreaves Stockholm, HSU Jewellery, Lily Kamper, Lola Rose London, Loveness Lee, Natalie Perry Jewellery, Pascale x James, P by Panache,  Olivia Grace, Rachel Boston, Rose Carvalho, Safsafu, Sif Jakobs Jewellery, Shimell and Madden.

London Fashion Week_London Fashion Week Street Style_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger_London blogger

London Fashion Week_London Fashion Week Street Style_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger_London blogger

London Fashion Week_London Fashion Week Street Style_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger_London blogger

London Fashion Week_London Fashion Week Street Style_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger_London blogger

London Fashion Week_London Fashion Week Street Style_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger_London blogger

London Fashion Week_London Fashion Week Street Style_GEMOLOGUE_Liza Urla_jewellery blogger_London blogger

DRESS BY EKATERINA KUKHAREVA

FLY OF BUTTERFLIES EARRINGS BY FUTURO REMOTO GIOIELLI

SHOES BY ERDEM

JACKET BY JOSEPH

SHOP THE LOOK:

LOEWE Elephant coin purse

LOEWE Elephant coin purse

Solange Hotlips Ring

Solange Hotlips Ring

SMYTHSON Mara croc-effect leather jewelry case

SMYTHSON Mara croc-effect leather jewelry case

Futuro Remoto Gioielli Earrings

Futuro Remoto Gioielli Earrings

Smythson Make It Happen Notebook

Smythson Make It Happen Notebook

Annoushka Mythology Globe Amulet

Annoushka Mythology Globe Amulet

Christian Louboutin Nail Polish

Christian Louboutin Nail Polish

Annoushka Alphabet Pendant

DIPTYQUE Tubéreuse scented candle

DIPTYQUE Tubéreuse scented candle

GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla features exquisite global discoveries, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews – a celebration of fine jewellery, fashion jewellery and vintage jewellery.

*Photographed by Julia Flit. Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post GET THE LOOK…LONDON FASHION WEEK 2017 appeared first on Gemologue.

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Jewelry Collection Stories: @homeoftheland

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Today’s latest installment of Jewelry Collection Stories comes from Jemima who we all know in our jewelry community as @homeoftheland. I love her taste in jewelry and her personal collection reflects just that! She isn’t afraid to wear bold pieces and I’ve enjoyed connecting her with the seller of one of her most exquisite pieces–the elongated diamond ring. I’ll let her tell you about her collection, take it away:

I inherited the jewelry fever from my mother who is pragmatic and no-nonsense in most every other way but still wants her jewels. My father was happy to oblige her with some beautiful antique pieces they picked out together for special occasions and she has no qualms about filling the gaps in her collection herself. She recently bought an outrageous Edwardian emerald and diamond three stone ring at the Hillsborough Antique Show that I lust after constantly. I collected vintage Gucci bags from the 1960’s and 1970’s for many years (I still own and love them) before I started to transition more to jewelry over a decade ago when I could afford some of the pieces I wanted.

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There is something I love in every era but I always look for big, evocative, narrative pieces. I did visuals for retailer Anthropologie for a very long time and jewelry is an integral part of my bougie-boho aesthetic. Dainty pieces just disappear on me (although I love admiring them on other people). I love figurative animal jewelry and have acquired everything from Victorian snakes to a 1980’s Kieselstien-Cord alligator ring to my contemporary Elsa Peretti scorpion necklace. Another one of my favorite pieces is a long Edwardian diamond ring that I first lusted over on a fellow Instagramer. When Danielle at Gem Gossip posted that the owner was letting it go, I jumped on it.

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There have been studies that people get more gratification from spending money on experiences rather than objects. To me beautiful jewelry is both an object and an experience every time you wear it. Rings are my favorite because you can admire them while you wear them. I love the craftsmanship- the touch of the hand. There is an emotional connection to a piece that was exquisitely made. I also love that jewelry speaks to the time and place that it was made whether it be from the Victorian era or the Dynasty/Dallas 1980’s.

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I fell in love with snake jewelry because of the baby sitter that stayed with my brother and I when my parents went off on their world travels. She was an original hippie Deadhead with an old BMW 2002. She had this amazing jeweled gold Victorian snake coil bracelet that she inherited. She’d casually wear it on her upper arm with jeans and a beat up tank top. I convinced her to let me borrow it for my senior prom. I hated my dress and my date, and the hairstylist screwed up my updo but it was worth it because I got to wear the snake.

xoxoGemGossip

WANT MORE? Check out the other Jewelry Collection Stories

You can follow Jemima –> @HomeoftheLand

Thanks to Gossip Gem

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All Good Things Come In Sets!

CIRCA considers Bulgari one of our favorite jewelry designers. Our client came in with this lovely bracelet with matching earrings. The pastel colors define their iconic appeal. They were her mother-in-law’s. Upon her passing there were several items our client inherited, many of which she will be wearing for years to come. Not these though. “I just can’t make them mine,” she confided in us. “…so I suppose I’ll be making them yours.”

Check out other sets we’ve purchased below!

David Webb White Enamel, Diamond & Gold Equestrian Set

CIRCA buys entire collections of jewelry. You’d be pretty surprised at how consistent some can be. At CIRCA we are lucky enough to be offered a window into the personal taste of certain collectors. It can be quite an honor. This collector’s remarkable David Webb white enamel jewelry helped to define her signature look. When it was time to sell, our client was also looking for our consistency. In this case it was our time honored consistent commitment to meet privately, offer in writing, pay immediately.

Bulgari Serpenti Diamond & Gold Watch, Earring & Ring Set

Since its creation CIRCA 1940, the iconic Bulgari Serpenti has frequently evolved from its original design, continuously slithering alongside women’s fashion to exude the bold glamour of each new decade. The serpent has since become an essential mascot in Bulgari’s jewelry collection, coveted by some of the world’s most glamorous women. Elizabeth Taylor’s wrist was famously adorned by a custom bejeweled Serpenti while on the set of her acclaimed film, Cleopatra. On a visit to our Hong Kong office, our client showed us her collection and was thrilled upon hearing our offer. Her jewelry and diamonds really were worth more at CIRCA.

Cartier Djigar Diamond & Gold Earring Set

This purchase came as a referral from a longtime client in Chicago. The Cartier suite was accompanied by our most recent satisfied client who in turn told us of the friends she would refer. The Djigar earrings and ring suite depict elephants walking. Legend has it that elephants never forget. And you should never forget the lengths to which CIRCA will go to to make a satisfied client of you

The post All Good Things Come In Sets! appeared first on CIRCA.

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Timeless Classics: Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambras

We could never imagine having the thought, “Oh no… Not another Alhambra bracelet…” when we see these iconic Van Cleef & Arpels pieces come into CIRCA’s buying room. Our client was pretty sure the style had been played out. “No! In fact, VCA’s turquoise Alhambra just makes some of our customers completely crazy.” “How crazy?” she asked. We wrote down our offer, to which see responded, “I see. I’ll be back with the Alhambra necklace.” Marvel at other classic examples and their stories below!

Van Cleef & Arpels Magic Alhambra Necklace (Mother of Pearl)

We got this stunning mother of pearl Magic Alhambra in our buying room just in time for our client to trade up for a Mother’s Day treat this year. There’s nothing like flowers for mama!

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Earrings (Malachite)

More than half of CIRCA’s clients return to sell to us again, which speaks volumes about the service we provide. We recently purchased these VCA malachite Alhambra earrings from a client who has been coming to us for many years. We strive to provide the best price for your signed jewelry, and to give you the best selling experience as well.

Van Cleef & Arpels Magic Alhambra Bracelet (Mother of Pearl & Black Onyx)

Always a favorite, this Alhambra bracelet in mother of pearl and black onyx is one of the iconic stars in the VCA lineup. The Magic Alhambra debuted in 2006. Its charms of varying sizes is what separates magic from others in the collection. Our client decided to hold on to the necklace but felt the bracelet was “too matchy”. When a piece you have doesn’t quite fit in your collection it may be time to visit CIRCA.

The post Timeless Classics: Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambras appeared first on CIRCA.

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Jewelry Collection Stories: Kate of @LuxCharmJewelry

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This month’s Jewelry Collection Story comes from Kate of @LuxCharmJewelry and it is a good one! Kate is a full-time art teacher and part-time jewelry enthusiast and collector. You may already be following her on Instagram, but if not you must. Her collection is pretty amazing and her story may resonate with many of you. So without further ado, I give you Kate’s collection story:

I’ve always loved jewelry. I have early memories of playing “dress up” and “jewelry store” with my grandmother Louise. She kept her jewelry in the top dresser drawer. Oh how I loved looking inside those little boxes and seeing all the sparkly jewels inside! We would arrange her jewels on top of carefully arranged bits of pretty fabrics and embroidered handkerchiefs and take turns “shopping.” It was so much fun trying on her white dress gloves and high heels and playing with all those pretty things.

When I was around 10 years old, my dad started giving me jewelry every year for Christmas, mostly rings. One year, I received a topaz ring that had the most amazing shade of bright blue. I adored that ring! Another favorite ring given to me by my dad was a gold signet ring that he had monogramed with my initials. I think I was around 15 at the time. It’s a classic look that will never go out of style and one I wear often today.

One of my favorite early jewelry memories was when my family went out to dinner before my high school senior award night. I didn’t know it at the time, but I was about to win the top artist award in my class, and my parents bought me this beautiful southwestern sterling bracelet and turquoise ring to mark the occasion. For high school graduation, I received a large, modernist sterling and gold ring. At the time, I wasn’t into yellow gold, and these bold sterling pieces were among the most beautiful pieces I owned. Luckily, my parents have continued the tradition of gifting me jewelry for special occasions, and I cherish them all. These pieces help to serve as reminders of special times in my life. My sweet husband has also joined in on the tradition and I have received many beautiful pieces from him now over the years, including my very first (and favorite) Victorian bird bangle bracelet and my beloved antique turquoise and diamond halo ring.

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As a teenager, I was really into second-hand shops–mainly for vintage clothes and small decorative items, but eventually I started picking up inexpensive jewelry and odds-and-ends; like pendants, chokers, chains, etc. At about the same time, I started making beaded jewelry and even gifting and selling pieces to my friends.

Years later, I decided to try my hand at selling handmade jewelry on Etsy. It was a fun, challenging, and creative outlet. Those were the relative early days of Etsy, and I grew as it grew. I did this for a couple of years and slowly started incorporating more and more vintage jewelry components and findings into my pieces. Eventually, the competition increased and my enthusiasm waivered, so I put my shop on hold.

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My love affair with antique jewelry began about eight years ago when my mom and I were antiquing at one of my favorite stores in Richmond, IN. My mom fell head-over-heels for this old gold cameo ring. At first, I was like, “What? Cameos? Ugh, I don’t get it.” Then much to my surprise, my mom professed her life-long love affair with cameos, citing stories from her youth. The shop owner quoted her a low price and my mom quickly bought the ring. She wasn’t one to make fine jewelry purchases on our excursions together, so I was intrigued and wanted to know more. I couldn’t stop staring at this unusual reddish-orange cameo ring on our drive back home; I was fascinated by it. It didn’t look like the girly, pink cameos I was used to seeing. It was more masculine in style and the gold was a rich rose color. The shop owner estimated the ring to be about 120 years old.

To my knowledge, I had never seen a ring that old before and now I wanted one for myself! The more I researched, the more I realized what an amazing deal my mom got on that ring. Sure, it was more than I was used to spending on random antique mall purchases (about $85), but still affordable. This made antique jewelry seem obtainable to me for the first time ever. I started reading jewelry books, researching online, and educating myself on antique jewelry. I liked learning the history behind each piece. It’s a perfect fit for me– combining my love of history, research, sentiment, story, etc.

Inspired by my new passion and focus, I reopened my Etsy shop–selling only vintage and antique jewelry. I absolutely loved hunting for old jewelry, even cameos! Thinking back to that special trip to Richmond with my mom, I believe this was the critical moment that later turned this new interest into a full-blown hobby and part-time job for me.

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Today I have such a deep and sincere appreciation for antique jewelry; I tend to collect a little bit of everything. All in all, I tend to go more for Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco pieces. Rings are probably my favorite type of jewelry to wear and collect. I love everything from dainty to bold, statement rings. I also love antique bangles and Deco necklaces in all sorts of finishes, metals, and styles.

One of my favorite things to collect are watches. My favorite makers are Longines and Bucherer. I have everything from watch pins, watch rings, wristwatches, and pocket watches. And I really love long enamel watch necklaces. My love of watch necklaces probably began when I scored an amazing Bucherer red guilloche enamel watch ball necklace for $60 in a small, local antique shop. I later learned this was a remarkable deal for one with its original enamel chain in perfect condition. I’ve since added about 10 more to my collection over the years. I just can’t stop myself when I see a beautiful one for a good price. I have such a weakness for fine guilloche enamel-work.

In addition, I love bird-themed jewelry and have many bird bangles, lockets, etc. I tend to favor cool-color pieces in general (it must be the Pisces in me!). I am very fond of blue–sapphires, lapis, zircon, and turquoise to name a few. Pale lavender chalcedony, dreamy moonstones, and that particular shade of green commonly used in Art Deco pieces–are all personal favorites. I have a growing collection of snake rings, too.

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I enjoy shopping at small, local places best. The Midwest is a gold mine for antiques of all kinds. The big jewelry enthusiasts seem to live on either coast and being stuck in the middle has its advantages… lower prices and less pickers. But this seems to get harder every year. My favorite display cases and shops seem to be shutting down. The old dealers retire; some pass away. I think part of me has also wanted to open a brick and mortar shop, but the risks are scary.

Currently, I seem to have the most luck shopping at antique shows and online auctions. I’m always on the hunt for new pieces. I would love to own more niello jewelry, antique enamel bracelets, and gutta percha bangles inlaid with gold. I have a thing for portrait paintings but oddly, own no portrait jewelry. I interned at the National Portrait Gallery right after college and it’s a subject I’m really interested in. I would love to find the perfect emerald ring and more “name” or “initial” jewelry to represent the important people in my life.

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Recently I celebrated a milestone birthday (hello, 40!) and had been hunting for the perfect aquamarine birthstone piece of jewelry for months. Then it finally happened…a huge, honking, 14-carat, Victorian, pear-shaped aqua ring in 15K gold popped up on my Instagram feed. Its large size, unfussy setting, and perfect pale-blue color, stopped me dead in my tracks. A direct quote from the seller was, “a mesmerizing, dreamy, huge piece of magic.” Indeed it was. I sold three personal collection rings to make room for this special ring, the latest addition to my jewelry box.

Back when I started wearing, selling, and collecting antique jewelry, I was the only one I knew who did. I just bought what I liked and what I could afford at the time. It wasn’t until I joined IG a couple of years ago that I found other like-minded people who loved and appreciated old jewelry as much as I do. Like most sellers/collectors, I am searching for more high quality and unusual pieces nowadays. Lately, there seems to be more competition, more reproductions, and higher prices on the online auction sites, making it harder to “score” a deal. While I may not be selling forever, I know I will be wearing and enjoying my jewelry for the rest of my life. It brings me so much joy. Marking special occasions and making new memories with jewelry are so important to me. Jewelry has a way of keeping our memories alive…providing a tangible reminder… connecting us to the people, places, and significant moments we cherish in life. Happy hunting!

xoxoGemGossip

WANT MORE? Check out the other Jewelry Collection Stories

You can follow Kate –> @LuxCharmJewelry

Source: GossipGem.com

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Doyle & Doyle Debuts Rare Collection of Antique Jewels

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Doyle & Doyle is thrilled to debut pieces from a spectacular cache of rare antique jewels, all acquired from a single collector. Including jewelry from ancient Rome, 17th century Spain, and 19th century France, these are the best examples of their type and many are hallmarked by well known jewelers. Keep reading for a sneak peek of the historic collection before it goes on exhibition at Doyle & Doyle in September.

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These exquisite micromosaic pieces date to the mid-19th century and are hallmarked for the Vatican Workshop of the Papal State.The Vatican’s mosaic studio was founded in the 16th century, its skilled artisans create artworks commissioned by wealthy patrons and pieces for the Pope to give as gifts. The Sistine Chapel ceiling by Michelangelo, Saint Peter’s Square designed by Bernini, and Raphael’s “The School of Athens” are among the many masterpieces you can discover at the Vatican. Originally founded in the 16th century, the skilled artisans working in the Vatican’s mosaic studio create pieces for the Pope to give as gifts and artworks commissioned by wealthy patrons. They also oversee and maintain the ten thousand square meters of colorful mosaics that adorn Saint Peter’s Basilica. This bangle and brooch are beautifully made, featuring glass tesserae so tiny that the designs look like paintings in shades of red, blue, green, and white. Perhaps a wealthy young man purchased them during his Grand Tour through Europe, or they were gifts to an important Church official. No matter their origin, they are little works of art that display the incredible skill of the Vatican’s workshop.

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The collection includes other ecclesiastical jewels in addition to the Vatican micromosaics, including a variety of gem-set and enameled crosses from many different periods. This striking dimensional crucifix cross is Spanish from the 17th century, detailed with enamel and engraving that resembles wood grain. Although probably not original, we love it worn on the black ribbon choker, especially when layered with antique gold guard chains. Although these are museum quality jewels, they’re definitely wearable!

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There are also charming examples of sentimental and devotional jewelry. The rose cut diamond encrusted heart hangs from a sweet rose gold dove. The diamonds are foil backed and you can see hints of pink, gold, and even green reflecting through the stones. The rare late 17th century Spanish reliquary pendant is a small compartment that holds a tiny bit of a saint’s blood. It’s backed by a hand painted figure of a female saint and framed by emeralds and garnets. This type of jewel was probably a private devotional artwork. Spain being an intensely Catholic country, people believed in the power of saints to affect their daily life. In additional to more traditional liturgy, 17th century Spaniards prayed to their personal saint to intervene and make their lives better.

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The other half of this incredible collection is comprised of museum quality Arts & Crafts and Art Nouveau jewelry. The Arts & Crafts Movement was a direct response to the mechanization and poor working conditions engendered by the Industrial Revolution in the mid-19th century. Adherents looked to the Middle Ages, nature, and popular folk art for inspiration, seeking to return to an idyllic time before mass production. Shying away from precious materials, Arts & Crafts jewelers favored readily available gemstones, such as garnet, amethyst, citrine, opal, and moonstone. The delicate gold pendant is British, comprised of hand wrought wirework set with bright blue turquoise and glowing moonstone.

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By the end of the century, Art Nouveau artists took the theme of nature to the next level. Art Nouveau jewelry often incorporated idealized female forms with swirling, whiplash hair framed by sensuous flora, like this striking silver mirror locket. Dating to 1900, this lovely piece is hallmarked for French jeweler Lucien Coudray. Coudray specialized in engraving medals and won several prizes for his artistry. Another popular form was a winged female with gossamer enamel wings studded with tiny gems or pearls. This statuesque dragonfly woman was created around 1900 and bears the hallmark of noted Art Nouveau jeweler, Gaston Laffitte. The light filters through the translucent green plique-a-jour enamel wings, creating a delicate stained glass effect.

This is just a small preview of the incredible historic collection – want to see it all? Doyle & Doyle is putting on a public exhibition in September. Email [email protected] for more information and to get on the invite list!

This post was contributed by Juliet Rotenberg of Doyle & Doyle, thank you!!

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Want more?! To check out the store tour of Doyle & Doyle, click here.

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