Q & A and Visit with Emily Stoehrer of MFA Boston

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After a long and exciting week in Boston, I had a visit to the Museum of Fine Arts set up to feed my jewelry history cravings. One of my favorite things about my love and passion for jewelry is learning! Museum exhibits are such a great way to see and learn, often producing a lifelong impact or memory–especially for me. Whenever there is a headlining jewelry exhibit, I like to try to schedule trips in hopes of catching it before it ends. Lucky for Boston, the MFA has quite an extensive jewelry department that is constantly researching, collaborating, and creating new exhibits. I got to have a private tour with Emily Stoehrer who is not only a wealth of knowledge, but highly dedicated and involved in what she does for the museum. I was fascinated in so many ways, as she brought me through the MFA’s current exhibit Past is Present: Revival Jewelry.

Learn more about Emily as she answers my questions below and make sure you stop by the exhibit before it ends in August of 2018. Can’t wait to visit again!

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I am the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry. It’s a unique role in an American fine art museum, which was established in 2006. I was appointed in 2014, and over the last three years have worked to develop the exhibition program; add extraordinary jewels to the collection; connect with jewelers, designers, and collectors; and collaborate with colleagues across the museum to plan programming and events

Spanning thousands of years of jewelry history, there are more than 20,000 objects in the jewelry collection. Highlights include our ancient collections and contemporary jewelry, but over the last decade have added to our holding of fine jewelry. A great example of this is a gift given by the Rothschild family a few years ago, which included an outstanding pearl and diamond necklace that dates to the late nineteenth century. With large, perfectly matched natural pearls, it’s an extraordinary treasure! Yvonne Markowitz (who is the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry Emerita) and I have worked to establish a jewelry resource center for anyone interested in the study of jewelry, and as part of that we have also worked with the Curator of Design to acquire jewelry with related design drawings. Studying drawings from firms like Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, the manufacturer-jeweler Louis Ferón, and the artist-craftsman Frank Gardner Hale, alongside the jewelry they made, has greatly informed our understanding of jewelry and how the industry operated historically.

We have also worked to add strength to strength by filling in gaps in our historical collection. For example, until recently we did not have anything by Carlo Giuliano. But, this year we added two amazingly naturalistic gold and enamel butterflies to the collection—a Duke of Burgundy and Bath White butterfly, to be specific. They are impossibly thin, and enameled on both sides to show every detail of the butterfly’s body and wings. They are a stunning example of the goldsmith’s art. Another historically important and spectacular ornament that I recently acquired is the Apparitions brooch which was designed by Eugene Grasset and made by Henri Vever for the 1900 Paris Exposition. It’s hauntingly beautiful art nouveau aesthetic won them the Grand Prix.

My favorite part of the job is the research and planning that goes into creating an exhibition—doing research in libraries and archives and taking a deep dive into historical documents, publications, and material culture. Unfortunately, as I run from meeting to meeting, I don’t get to spend as much time doing this as I would like. So, I rely on some a team of volunteers and interns to help with some of it. Once the research has been done, and the objects have been selected, the real fun begins. I have learned so much about the storytelling capabilities of jewelry from working with the MFA’s remarkable exhibition designers, mountmakers, and conservators as we discuss and mock-up how each object will be displayed in the gallery.

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As any lover of jewelry knows, the past has consistently inspired jewelers and designers. While interest in historicism was particularly strong during the nineteenth century, there were great revival jewels made before 1800 and after 1900. In the same way the Victorians struggled with the tension between mass-production and hand-craftsmanship, we grapple with digital design and the pace of modern life. So, I see this as a topic that is as relevant today as it was 150 years ago, and if you think about it that way you’ll notice many examples of twentieth and twenty-first century jewelry that engage with a historical narrative. I hope that visitors enjoy seeing traditional “revivalist” ornaments by outstanding jewelers like Castellani and Giuliano, Bapst and Falize and Boucheron, but also some unexpected surprises like a 9-foot titanium python necklace by Munich-based contemporary jeweler David Bielander, and that the juxtaposition makes them question their notion of revival jewelry.

The exhibition highlights four revival styles: Archeological, Classical, Renaissance, and Egyptian. Each case in the intimate space includes a choice group of jewelry aimed to tell a story – travel, nationalism, graduation, cameo, scarabs, and snakes are just a few of the themes explored. If you pay very close attention to the labels, visitors might also be delighted to learn how early some of these objects were added to the MFA collection. Like the Met, the MFA was founded in 1870, and some of these jewels were acquired in the subsequent decades, making them contemporary jewelry when they were donated. A neoclassical necklace and five brooches with mythological scenes in carved shell cameo, and a Castellani necklace, earrings, and brooch commissioned by the amber collector William Buffum are just two examples of the objects that have resided at the MFA for more than one hundred years. Newer acquisitions on view include: a tour-de-force bracelet by the Roman jeweler Ernesto Pierret that features a central bovine head, granulation, and two menacing faces that come together to form the clap; a spectacular early twentieth-century neck ornament by G. Paulding Farham for Tiffany & Co.; and a slithering silver snake belt/necklace, with sapphire eyes, that Elsa Peretti designed for the American fashion designer Halston in the 1970s.

While 80% of the works on view are from the MFA collection, there are also some noteworthy loans. From the collection of Susan B. Kaplan, a startlingly lifelike lion speaks to the genius of Castellani’s designers and craftsmen. Unlike other micromosaic workshops, Castellani left the surface of their work uneven to create a glittering effected. Wartski Ltd., of London, loaned a demi-parure (belt buckle, brooch, and bracelet) by Falize Frères. Enameled on both sides, the glorious ornaments use translucent enamel and foil to create a fantastical scene with birds, like those seen in illuminated manuscripts. Generously sponsored by Cartier, the exhibition includes four magnificent twentieth-century ornaments from the Cartier Collection. Made between 1906 and 1928, the garland style medusa necklace, winged scarab belt buckle, Eye of Horus bracelet (that once belonged to Linda Porter), and the diamond chimera bracelet are outstanding examples of French revival jewelry, and the depth of the MFAs ancient collection allows for these dazzling jewels to be exhibited alongside the ancient artifacts that inspired their design.

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My path to jewelry was a crooked one. I have an undergraduate degree in Psychology, and had plans to attend law school. But a few years working in the District Attorney’s office, I changed my mind and I began researching graduate programs in fashion. In 2005 I moved to New York City and enrolled in the two-year Fashion & Textile Studies program at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Thanks to FIT’s remarkable alumni network I ended up back in my hometown with an internship at the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. As an intern I worked with conservators in the Textile Conservation department to relocate the fashion collection.

My first full-time position at the MFA was as a Collections Care Specialist and my responsibilities included preparing more than 10,000 objects from the Asian costume and textile collection for photography – everything from kimono to dragon robes and textile fragments to temple hangings. When that project ended, I became the Curatorial Research Associate reporting to Yvonne Markowitz (then curator of jewelry). For two years I worked with her on the inaugural exhibition in the jewelry gallery, and the book Artful Adornment. Both the exhibition and the book focused on highlights from the MFA’s jewelry collection. Yvonne quickly became a very important part of my life, and has been an extraordinary mentor. She encouraged me to think about a future as a jewelry curator, bringing my knowledge of fashion history to the understanding of jewelry. She enthusiastically introduced me to her contacts and colleagues, took me to conferences, and supported my own research in the field. She also told me to consider a PhD.

During my time at the MFA, I had been teaching courses in textiles and fashion history, and in 2010 I left the Museum and took a position at a small college in Boston’s Back Bay neighborhood. As Program Director and Assistant Professor, I managed three robust fashion programs with more than 100 students. At the same time I took PhD courses and exams, and began work on my dissertation. My doctoral work focused on the intersection of fashion, jewelry, and media. I examined the vintage jewelry on the red carpet from 1995-2010 using Neil Lane’s collection as a case study.

After nearly 30 years at the MFA, Yvonne retired in 2014 and I was appointed to replace her. Over the last three years, I curated the exhibitions Hollywood Glamour: Fashion and Jewelry from the Silver Screen, Past is Present: Revival Jewelry, and smaller installations; planned jewelry related events and trips for the MFA’s Fashion Council; traveled extensively to lecture, visit art fairs and exhibitions, participated in educational opportunities organized by Association for the Study of Jewelry and Related Arts (ASJRA) and Art Jewelry Forum (AJF) trips, attend conferences, visited collectors, galleries, designers, and jewelers. It’s been a whirlwind. Recently I have taken on two leadership roles, joining the board of directors for the Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG) and the Boston chapter of the Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA).

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I am immersed in research for two forthcoming exhibitions, and a book related to my doctoral work.

Opening in September 2018, an exhibition of Boston arts and crafts jewelry and metalwork will replace Past is Present in the Stanley H. and Rita J. Kaplan Family Foundation Gallery. From the establishment of the Boston Society of Arts and Crafts to the disastrous 1929 stock market crash that crippled many artist craftsmen, this exhibition will be the first to focus solely on Boston jewelers, and will include design drawings, jewelry, and hollowware by artists like Frank Gardner Hale, Josephine Hartwell Shaw, Margaret Rogers, and Edward Everett Oakes.

That exhibition will be followed by one on Elsa Peretti, who will be celebrating 50 years as a designer in 2020. Beginning her design career making jewelry and accessories for Giorgio Sant’ Angelo and Halston before joining Tiffany & Co., Peretti has created timeless designs that continue to resonate with modern consumers. Her refined taste has focused, primarily, on silver but the exhibition will feature a diverse sample of her work, as well as her inspirations, and—of course—include a fashion element. An esteemed arbiter of style, fashion icon, and friend of many twentieth century notables, this exhibition will celebrate Peretti’s life and career.

My work at the MFA keeps me very busy, but I am also in the midst of writing a book titled Jewelry in Celebrity Culture: Glamour and the Hollywood Spectacle. It will be published as part of I.B. Taurus’s Dress Culture series (edited by Reina Lewis and Elizabeth Wilson). From the tour-de-force necklace that the American firm Trabert & Hoeffer loaned Colette Colbert to wear in the 1935 film The Gilded Lily to the impact of The Representation Project’s #askhermore campaign, the book will examine how jewelry aids in Hollywood’s production of glamour.

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To be honest, the last three years have been a series of highlights. The people I have had the opportunity to meet have been the most memorable. The many conversations and meetings I had with Neil Lane as I conducted research on Hollywood jewelry and his private collection, having lunch with Elsa Peretti in Sant Marti Vell, Spain and discussing her incredible life and work, and spending two days in Wallace Chan’s Hong Kong atelier are at the top of the list!

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I look forward to seeing the field grow in new and exciting ways. There are so many M.A. programs that embrace the study of jewelry history, and there remain extensive subjects awaiting scholarly work. Coupled with a G.G. I think there is extraordinary potential for research and writing. I was lucky to have a great mentor, who guided my career path, and if you can find an experienced curator or historian to play that role for you, it’s priceless. This field is so welcoming. I encourage anyone interested in jewelry to find others that share their passion, social media is a great place for this.

Being a museum curator is much more multi-faceted than I realized after leaving graduate school. Even after years working at the Museum, it wasn’t until I was a curator that I realized the diverse requirements of the job—a natural curiosity, a mastery of your subject area and how it connects to other types of art, a vision and strong ideas that you can translate into exhibitions, excellence in building and maintaining relationships with artists and collectors, as well as strong research, writing, and public speaking skills.

I am very lucky that the MFA has such a vibrant jewelry program. My position, the gallery, and the prominence of jewelry at the MFA is all thanks to tremendous generosity Susan B. Kaplan. It is our hope that other American fine art museums will expand their collection, exhibition, and publication related to jewelry. And, that similar positions will emerge at other American museums.

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WANT MORE? You can follow Emily on Instagram —> @jewelcurator

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James D. Julia Auction Features 60 Jewelry Items in Upcoming Sale

Hey Gem Gossip readers! As many of you know, writing about upcoming auctions is one of my favorite topics–I’ve written nearly 100 blog posts on this topic throughout the past almost nine years of having this blog! I live it, breathe it, and am constantly talking about jewelry auctions. I love discovering new auction houses and I’m excited to be writing about James D. Julia Auction house today since I never have featured them before. They have an upcoming sale on June 16th, 2017 that is called “June Rare Lamps, Glass & Fine Jewelry Auction” which is of interest, particularly the 60 lots of fine jewelry items which is at the very beginning of the sale.

James D. Julia Inc. is located in Fairfield, Maine and has been in business for over fifty years. The company began in 1965 by Arthur Julia as a small country auction house which quickly grew over the years. Current owner James D. Julia purchased the company from his father in 1974 after graduating college. Always staying current with the times has been a key to the success of this auction house–state-of-the-art catalogs, photos and descriptions as well as an easy interactive website where bidding can take place from anywhere in the world have allowed an auction house located in Maine compete with world-known names. They are currently ranked as one of the top ten antique auction houses in North America.

The June 16th auction features 60 lots of jewelry items–pieces from the low 100s on up to six-figure digits–so a pretty large assortment. Diamond rings, lots of emeralds, a high-end Breitling watch, jewelry suites, pearls, gorgeous every day jewelry, and everything in between. One of my favorite lots is the last one in the jewelry section–a group of 40 jewelry books! I am such a jewelry book nerd and this lot features a bunch of rare, out-of-print titles. It is definitely worth checking out and the people of James D. Julia were kind enough to create an interactive catalog (embedded above) which features all 60 of the jewelry lots! It is also worthy to note, many of the pieces, starting with lot #1019 as noted in the catalog, are from a private Texas Estate collection which is completely unreserved and thus could result in some excellent buying opportunities.

Here are some of my favorites highlighted:

Lot 1005: A stunning all-diamond bypass style ring, set in 14k white gold and an estimated 1.78 carats total. I love the bypass style, with this piece having three diamonds set at a diagonal. If you’re thinking of a unique alternative engagement ring, this would be a great choice! Estimate: $2,000-3,000

Lot 1007: The most expensive/highest estimate piece in the sale–this 10.02 carat natural fancy intense yellow diamond ring! This rare and unique stone is VS-1 in clarity and comes with a diamond certificate from GIA. To accompany the center stone, it is beautifully flanked on each side by bullet shaped diamonds, VVS/VS clarity and FG in color. The ring is done in platinum and 18k white gold. Estimate: $130,000-160,000

Lot 1016: Elegant and charming, this diamond pendant necklace features gorgeous bright white diamonds set into a Art Nouveau treasure. It features a dangling bezel set diamond at the bottom and hangs from a 16″ chain. Nothing like a piece of history. Estimate: $1,500-2,500

Lot 1020: A vintage Cartier ring of finest quality–composed of one center emerald cut diamond and two emerald cut emeralds on each side. The ring is done in platinum with 18k yellow gold settings. Center diamond weighs 1.98 carats and the emeralds are Columbian. Can’t get much better than that! Estimate: $20,000-30,000

Lot 1023: I like this ring because it has a bypass style but it also has sort of a serpent look to it! The ring is set with a modified-fan cut emerald and lots of diamond accents, 1.75 carats to be exact! This ring is trendy and classic at the same time. I could easily pair with other pieces for a fun look. Estimate: $1,200-1,800

Lot 1035: If you love a good multi-gemstone piece of jewelry, this one is my pick for you! This cuff is done in 18k yellow gold and bezel set with multiple gemstones of all colors! We’ve got rubies, emeralds, sapphires, and an unidentified yellow stone…all of various shapes and sizes. A truly well-made and exquisite piece! Estimate: $500-800

Lot 1052: This necklace caught my attention the first time I ever looked at this catalog. It consists of a multi-serpent pendant that hangs from a gold toggle necklace–the various gemstones are peridot, garnet, amethyst, and citrine. The layers of serpents graduate in size, as do the gemstones. I’ve never seen a pendant quite like this one before and I’ve always been drawn to serpent jewelry. Estimate: $600-900

Lot 1060: Remember the lot of jewelry books I talked about above–this is the lot! It features 40 different jewelry reference books, including several out-of-print titles. 100 Years of Collectible Jewelry, Cameos Old & New, Jewelry in America 1600-1900, and The Art of Fine Jewelry are definitely intriguing me and I feel like I will be bidding on this lot come auction day!

This sponsored blog post was brought to you in collaboration with James D. Julia.

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Q & A with Nektar De Stagni Fine Jewelry

Spike Jewelry Set by Nektar De Stagni

Transforming soft, elegant pearls into edgy and cool pieces of jewelry, Nektar De Stagni has created a fine jewelry brand that is both fun and here to stay. I’m loving everything about it, including the smiley (and non-smiley) pearl emoji dudes, whether they’re in pendant form, ring form, or earrings, these provoke positivity! I personally own the spike pearl necklace in yellow gold and every time I wear it, someone always asks about it!

Nektar De Stagni has creativity in her blood and first launched her fashion brand at the young age of 21. Both the response and the passion she felt from her jewelry which also launched had led her to solely focus on NDS her fine jewelry identity and brand. Since its inception in 2008, Nektar De Stagni has become a cult favorite and is currently carried at Nordstrom, The Webster, Opening Ceremony, and several other retailers, including her own e-commerce website. We caught up with the busy entrepreneur and DJ to learn the latest:

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We are currently working on expanding on the Pearl Styles to include other cute symbols like Hearts, Peace signs, and Letters/initials!

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I have been designing since I was a little girl. I have sketches of jewelry as early as age 6! When I was 18 I started a ready to wear company and made jewelry accessories to complement the clothes. The jewelry was really popular and it slowly took over. In 2008 I decided to launch Nektar De Stagni Fine Jewelry as a standalone brand.

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Seeing my jewelry in the Wall Street Journal, New York Times, Bergdorf Goodman, and worn by Rihanna is a major thrill!

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I would love to one day collaborate with Tiffany & Co, and Cartier.

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I love all of my jewelry, but the Smiley Emoji Pearl Ring is a great reminder to stay positive and grateful every day 🙂

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Enter to win your own Nektar De Stagni smile emoji pearl ring — click here!

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Top Ten Best Jewelry Looks of the 2017 Met Gala

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This year’s theme for the evening’s Met Gala was “The Art of the In-Between”. The exhibit offers a retrospective of designer Rei Kawakubo of the famed design house Comme des Garçons. Stars and socialites embraced the juxtaposition of redefining the traditional placement of jewelry by wearing key pieces around the ear, in the hair and in some cases even backwards. The red carpet dazzled with both futuristic, avant-garde statement pieces and traditional vintage diamonds from iconic jewelers.

Below is a selection of the most striking examples we found to be featured on the red carpet. We are counting down our top ten looks, including the above look worn by Chinese fashion model Liu Wen.

1. Liu Wen wearing Chanel fine jewelry, photos via NY Mag.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

2. Claire Danes wore an antique yellow gold and seed pearl earrings and antique cut steel arrow brooch, circa 1850, worn in the hair by Fred Leighton.

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3. Karen Elson stuns in Tiffany & Co. earrings and ring.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

4. Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen wearing a plethora of what looks like vintage baubles.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

5. Actress Elle Fanning wore an Art Deco aquamarine and diamond bandeau, circa 1920s, in platinum along with 6.0 tcw diamond studs in platinum by Fred Leighton.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

6. Kate Bosworth wore vintage ruby and diamond earrings and a vintage diamond necklace by Cartier.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

7. Katie Holmes wore a fabulous set of antique diamond and paste necklaces from Kentshire.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

8. Kerry Washington wore a safety- pin choker by Michael Kors Collection.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

9. Sarah Paulson wore custom Calder-inspired sapphire in oxidized gold chandelier earrings by Irene Neuwirth.

Met Gala | Gem Gossip

10. Cassie wore a custom-made diamond ear cuff by Indonesian designer Rinaldy A. Yunardi.

All above photos via Getty images.

This post was collaboratively written by:

wwwdaily Laura Lee Fulham | T: @WhoWoreWhatDly | W: www.whoworewhatdaily.com

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Top Gold Jewelry Trends for 2017, with May Is Gold Month

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This is my fourth year partnering with May Is Gold Month and I think it goes without saying that I love all things karat gold! In preparing for this trend post, I thought it would be a good idea to spread out almost all of my jewelry across my entire desk. Scattering each piece allowed for all the memories, sentiment, special occasions and sparkle to overflow at once. I was reminded how powerful gold can be in more ways than one. It also helped me fully understand why May Is Gold Month exists and why they are so adamant about celebrating a single metal.

When found in the ground, gold can look like an undesirable pebble; dirty and hiding its value. It is the makers and jewelry designers who unlock the true beauty of gold when they create a piece of jewelry using gold. It comes to life and takes shape–it can be made to look shiny, textured, brushed, or hammered. It can be rose, green, red, or brown (even some other colors too). A single piece of gold jewelry can provoke laughter, tears and joy, all at the same time. It also can unlock the trends, feelings and historical happenings from which time period it was made.

All of my karat gold jewelry has a special place and meaning in my life. Some pieces were created during the turn-of-the-century, when other metals were being discovered and created…but gold always reigned supreme. Other pieces were designed specially for me by jewelry friends who have become like family. And my most important pieces of karat gold jewelry have been passed down to me, with tender stories and rich histories. It is my passion to teach others how to take all these jewels and style them in numerous ways, and it is May Is Gold Month‘s commitment to celebrating this that makes May one of my favorite months!

So this year’s trends will keep you on your toes–let’s get creative, as I challenge you each week to showing me how you style, wear and show me your karat gold with these six weekly trends–have fun!

Wrist Ornaments | Gem Gossip

Trend #1: Wrist Ornaments

My wrists have been BFF with these Victorian hinged bangles since the day I acquired each one. You know how the Cartier Love bracelets are known to “become a part of you” once you wear one–it is the same with these guys to me–and better yet, not every girl has a Victorian bangle. These are all 14k yellow gold and are uniquely me. I’m hoping to add another to my stack soon!

Jumping Through Hoops | Gem Gossip

Trend #2: Jumping Through Hoops

Let’s face it, hoops never go out of style–they may go on a hiatus every so often–but come back even stronger than ever every time. Like right now! Hoops are so popular–I’ve had these large, very light-weight 14k gold hoops for years now. I decided to update my hoop look by adding these post hoops that are tiny but very wide by J. Hannah. I love how modern they can look and how easy they can pair with just about anything!

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Trend #3: Finger Frill

Ah, easily my favorite of the weekly trends. Lately I’ve been loving all-gold looks paired together…ones that are geometric and linear in nature, with bends, twists, and curves. The newest addition is the one I’m wearing on my ring finger. It is a simple wave and the wave perfectly fits and accentuates my engagement ring. It has been my go-to wedding band as of late. A simple design can create such a unique impact!

Neck Jazz | Gem Gossip

Trend #4: Neck Jazz

My neck has been getting extra love lately as I’ve been really into karat gold necklaces, pendants and different types of chains. I added a solid gold wire necklace a few months ago to my jewelry wardrobe and it has been a game-changer. So many things I can do with it, the possibilities are limitless! I sometimes wear it alone, I can easily throw on a pendants or a grouping of charms, and I can layer it up as well, like seen here. I’ve been collecting lots of Egyptian Revival pendants and charms, like my ankh I’m wearing. I also can’t get enough of my DMD Metal Shaman necklace with a diamond drool and my simple diamond with no setting whatsoever (it is a pierced, free-standing diamond) necklace from La Brune & La Blonde.

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Trend #5: Ear Decor

How many of you got a new ear piercing this past year just because of how trendy karat gold earrings are?! Whether you pile on stud after stud, go for an ear cuff look, or go big and bold, ear decor has never been more popular! One of my favorite earrings are by Grace Lee Designs and she calls these Whisper Mobiles as each is like an art installation on your ear, but they are whisper-thin and ultra lightweight. I am wearing three different styles in one ear, all done in 14k yellow gold.

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Trend #6: Gold for Guys

In a world with over 7 billion inhabitants, it is kismet that we find a partner that wants to spend the rest of its life on Earth with you. I happened to find that special person and what made our relationship even better was that he loves jewelry just as much as I do! From karat gold medallions, to karat gold sword stick pins, and everything in between, my husband loves wearing and collecting gold. My husband’s advice to any guy? “You should invest in a really nice karat gold bracelet that easily goes with your everyday style.” I agree!!

This sponsored post was brought to you in collaboration with May Is Gold Month.

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Gem Gossip Visits Leslie Hindman Auctioneers in Chicago, IL

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Victorian Earrings: Lot 30, Moonstone Necklace: Lot 17

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Bird brooch: Lot 36, Insect brooch: Lot 43

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Amethyst dangle earrings: Lot 11

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Cartier cigar band: Lot 214, snake ring: Lot 24, emerald ring: Lot 49

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Opal ring: Lot 264, Elongated diamond ring: Lot 515, sapphire ring: Lot 69

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Georgian emerald bracelet: Lot 4

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Peridot necklace (comes with matching earrings): Lot 27

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Opal ring: Lot 264, Morganite ring: Lot 61

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Turquoise and enamel brooch: Lot 33A, blue enamel and diamond brooch: Lot 54, Georgian pearl brooch: Lot 31

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Blue topaz collar necklace: Lot 247

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Aquamarine ring: Lot 48, Moonstone ring: Lot 260, Emerald & diamond ring: Lot 57 —- Glass scarab ring: Lot 8, Amethyst ring: Lot 683, Fire opal ring: Lot 5

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Blue enamel (made to look like lapis) and diamond brooch: Lot 54

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Georgian emerald bracelet: Lot 4, Gothic Revival bracelet: Lot 9, Emerald & diamond ring: Lot 49

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Peridot necklace and matching earrings suite: Lot 27

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Emerald & diamond ring: Lot 12, Emerald & diamond dome lattice ring: Lot 482A, oval opal ring: Lot 42

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Oval opal ring: Lot 42, Emerald & diamond dome lattice ring: Lot 482A, Emerald & diamond ring: Lot 12 —– Sapphire ring: Lot Lot 69, Elongated diamond ring: Lot 515, Opal ring: Lot 264,

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Moonstone Y-Necklace: Lot 17

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Cartier cigar band: Lot 214

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

Gothic Revival bracelet: Lot 9

Leslie Hindman | Gem Gossip

I couldn’t tell you how much I was looking forward to meeting the jewelry team behind the Fine Jewelry Department at Leslie Hindman Auctioneers in Chicago, IL. I’ve been in touch with the infamous windy-city based auction house since finding them online a few years ago. It started off with me registering to bid online at a few of their highlighted jewelry auctions, then I started to feature some of my favorite picks right here on Gem Gossip…then last year I consigned a ring of mine for Leslie Hindman to sell at auction. I was so pleased with how the whole experience panned out, from beginning to end, that I yet again consigned another ring from my personal collection. And what a treat it was to visit in person! Looking through auction catalogs is probably one of my most favorite activities, and to have that experience come to life is a dream come true.

Just as Leslie Hindman Auctioneers seeks out the finest in art, furniture, decorative arts and jewelry, their loyal clients have been bidding with the auction house for years, and have a distinct eye for the best too! Imagine my excitement as I entered the building to find a live auction going on right in front of my eyes–can you believe I’ve never actually been to an auction in real time (besides the car auctions with my dad, but those are outside and umm, unrefined to say the least)?! I received the grand tour and timing was great because all the furniture, fine art and decorative pieces that were currently selling in the auction room were neatly displayed between two large, sun-filled rooms. It looked like walking through an interior decorator’s portfolio. I spotted some gold mirrors and portrait paintings that I couldn’t stop staring at, but headed toward the jewelry department to get down to business.

Leslie Hindman’s Fine Jewelry & Timepieces department consists of Alex Eblen, graduate gemologist and director, James Wallace, graduate gemologist and timepieces specialist, two account specialists Madeline Schroeder & Katie Meyer, another graduate gemologist Meredith Derman, and finally, a cataloguer and jewelry specialist Jamie Henderson. Everyone had set up my favorite jewels in a large spread, front and center of the jewelry department, waiting for their time to shine. This experience for me, is comparable to visiting a dog adoption center–these pieces of jewelry were once loved, worn, and for whatever reason need to find new homes. Just like a dogs, I can’t help but want to take everything home with me! Instead of “cute and cuddly,” the jewels are so gorgeous and jaw-dropping.

Speaking of the jewelry I got to see, everything will be auctioned off on Sunday, April 23rd, 2017 starting at noon CST with the second round starting the following day at 10am, and ultimately complete when the last lot is sold. This auction features 1,238 lots of some of the best pieces of fine jewelry, loose gemstones and timepieces. I’ve gone through and picked my favorites, which are seen here in these photos–a neat glimpse into seeing what the jewelry looks like on! I know every cataloguer in the game does the utmost to fully describe each item, including measurements of how wide and long pieces are, but it’s the buyers that can often overlook those details. I’ve been guilty of this myself–the garnet comet ring I bought at auction surprised me so much when I received it in the mail. It was WAY bigger than what I had thought it would be, even though the millimeter size of the stone was given. It ended up being a good surprise–and I hope these photos help put into perspective what each piece would look like on and how they could potentially fit into your collection!

Here’s all the important links you need to know if you plan on bidding at this sale.

Date: Day One April 23, 2017 NOON CST, Day Two April 24, 2017 10am CST

Link to online catalog

Link to register to bid online

Have questions? email someone from the jewelry department directly at [email protected]


LHA Logotype_2016_Web

1338 W Lake St.

Chicago, IL 60607

www.lesliehindman.com

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Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry Sale Set for April 24, 2017

An important fancy colored diamond and diamond ring 124 (2) A pair of diamond day-night earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels, 129

Bonhams New York, April 24, 2017

133 lots of jewelry top off the upcoming New York sale from Bonhams. This is my first blog post featuring the highly respected auction house which is a global enterprise, having eight different locations worldwide. Their history as an auction house is one for the books, as they’ve been shattering records and facilitating some of the best exchanges in the world. In the US, we have three Bonhams locations, New York, Los Angeles and San Francisco (primary sales rooms are New York, Los Angeles, London and Hong Kong), with their online presence @BonhamsJewels Instagram which focuses on all things jewelry. It is a delight to look at and with every upcoming sale, the excitement and momentum is contagious. There are some serious lust-worthy jewels in their New York sale, which I’m going to be covering within this blog post.

The sale date is April 24th, 2017 and the start time is 3pm EST. If you want to get in on the fun, be sure to register to bid in advance of the sale date and surely don’t be intimidated by bidding online! If I can do it, you can do it! Let’s talk highlights…

I can’t pinpoint one particular pièce de résistance of the entire sale, so I’m going to choose these four jewels and make them my final answer! One aspect of Bonhams’ sales is the wow-factor. There are always pieces that make you stop and stare–whether they are big diamonds, fancy colored stones, bold sapphires or juicy emeralds–this is exactly what I’m talking about!

Leading Highlights:

Lot 124: If you know a thing or two about fancy yellow diamonds, you’ll realize this ring is IT. The center stone clocks in at 6.32 carats–color rating of fancy vivid yellow and clarity is VVS-1. I can’t even fathom something so remarkable as the center stone, however to make it even more amazing, it also is set in a ring with two diamonds on each side. These said diamonds are GIA certified as well and are a 2.08 ct & 2.07 ct, both F color stones with VS-1/2 clarity. If you want to see this baby on a hand, click here. Estimate: $400,000-600,000

Lot 129: Nothing more chic than a pair of day/night diamond earrings from Van Cleef & Arpels. A definite highlight of the sale, these earrings are set with nearly 30 carats of diamonds! Wow! All rounds, pear and marquise cuts which are done in platinum and 18k white gold for a stunning pair. The dangles can be removed to reveal stud earrings for an easy, on-the-go look! Estimate: $60,000-80,000

A fine ruby and diamond clip brooch, Cartier, circa 1935 132 A diamond rivière necklace 133

Lot 132: Ok, if you’ve been following me lately, you’ve realized I’ve kind of been obsessed over dress clips lately. For some reason, I keep seeing them pop up everywhere, including some great ones at auction. This one is crème de la crème, being signed Cartier and circa 1935. This Art Deco clip is set with a stunning Burmese ruby, over five carats of diamonds and sugarloaf and cabochon cut rubies. Such an elegant piece of history. Estimate: $300,000-400,000

Lot 133: Leading the sale is this catalog cover star–an exquisite diamond riviére necklace. This piece is composed of 63 diamonds which graduate in size; the biggest diamond in the center weighing 3.05 carats. All in all, the grand total carat weight is approximately 44 carats! A once-in-a-lifetime necklace for a very special lady…and if you’re wondering, it’s done in platinum. Estimate: $200,000-300,000

Other Favorites:

A black opal, demantoid and sapphire necklace, attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co.,  6 An Arts and Crafts citrine, diamond and gem-set pendant,  8 A diamond solitaire pendant necklace, Golconda  104

Necklaces

Lot 6: Anytime I see the words “black opal” I know it’s going to be pretty incredible. I don’t think I’ve ever met a black opal I didn’t like. This particular necklace is extra special because it is circa 1915 and attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co. The detail in this piece is great as the chain is accented by demantoid garnets and sapphire–and also love the gold filigree. Estimate: $15,000-25,000

Lot 8: An Arts & Crafts necklace that is quite unique–set with a citrine and some diamonds, circa 1915. I love the silhouette of this piece, with the draped chains and dangle. The craftsmanship of the chain sets it apart from others I’ve seen. And the colors–perfect for fall! Estimate: $7,000-9,000

Lot 104: As we’ve seen lately, heart shaped gem cuts are going strong. This pendant necklace is a bold 4.46 carats of a heart cut diamond, done in platinum. The specs on the diamond are VS-1 clarity and D color. I can picture it sparkling from a neck and looking gorgeous. It is simple, however anything but dainty! Estimate: $75,000-95,000

An emerald, diamond and onyx ring 20 A coral, diamond and enamel ring, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. 22 A diamond solitaire ring 69

Rings

Lot 20: I think this is one of the most beautiful rings I’ve seen up at auction in awhile. Mounted in platinum, set with a large 8.36 carat emerald and surrounded by diamonds, onyx and smaller emeralds. I love everything about this ring–from the style, to the gemstone combination, to the width of it. An heirloom that will be treasured for years to come–I am already jealous of whomever places the winning bid. Estimate: $15,000-20,000

Lot 22: This fun Tiffany & Co. ring has a striking color combination made up by the coral and blue enamel. Of course it is from the 1970s, a time period I’m obsessed with–their jewels and music, yes please. Done in 18k yellow gold with some diamond accent to finish off the design, this ring will stop people in their tracks! Bet! Estimate: $5,000-7,000

Lot 69: A ring that could single-handedly bring back the marquise cut as the most popular diamond cut! The ring is set with a VVS-2 clarity, I color diamond that is GIA certified. It weighs 6.07 carats and one request–making a major impact on the finger. I also love the fact that it is done in 18k yellow gold. Estimate: $70,000-80,000

A diamond and emerald pendant-brooch  5 An art deco diamond, sapphire, spinel and black onyx dress clip  17 A pair of fancy colored diamond and diamond earrings 125

Miscellaneous

Lot 5: This pendant/brooch is two pieces of jewelry in one! And did I mention the style and design is just breath-taking?! Lozenge-shaped emeralds dazzle with old European cut and old mine cut diamonds are set in this plaque style pendant, set in platinum. Estimate: $9,000-12,000

Lot 17: Of course I had to include another dress clip because I’m smitten with them. This one is more affordable than the amazing Cartier one mentioned earlier–but still just as gorgeous. And this one is also Art Deco, done in diamonds, sapphire, spinel and black onyx, all set in platinum. Estimate: $5,000-7,000

Lot 125: THESE. The cuts on these diamonds make them look like real ice–they are pear-shaped rose cut diamonds as petals and then the center of each flower is a fancy pink diamond. Such a great combination. The earrings total 17.59 carats of diamonds and are done in 18k white and rose gold. Estimate: $70,000-90,000

This sponsored blog post was brought to you in collaboration with Bonhams New York.

Bonhams

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Gem Gossip Visits J.S. Fearnley in Atlanta, GA

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Shirley Temple Jewels Highlight Heritage Auction’s December Sale

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Heritage Auctions, December 5th 2016

Heritage Auctions, December 5th 2016

Heritage Auctions, December 5th 2016

Heritage Auctions, December 5th 2016

Heritage Auctions, December 5th 2016

Truly one of the highlights of my career was getting to try on pieces of jewelry that once belonged to Shirley Temple when I visited Heritage Auctions in NYC a few months ago! Well these rare jewels are now finally up for auction at Heritage, where their December sales are jam-packed with some incredible jewelry. The amount and variety they have to offer is astounding. There are over 2,000 items in their Holiday Signature Sale which starts on December 5th at 10am CST. There’s no typo there, no extra zero was tapped when typing! Of the 2,000 and some items, over 80 pieces were once owned by Shirley Temple.

Above are some of my favorites, along with a fun collage of some of the gorgeous loose gemstones that are also included in the sale. Did you know they sell loose gems too?! Many come with certificates and are waiting to be set into something beautiful to be worn.

>> Heritage Holiday Jewelry Signature Auction, December 5th, 2016

Lot 54032: A French diamond, lapis, turquoise clip brooch, Estimate: $4,000-6,000

Lot 54637: A Cartier Ceylon yellow sapphire ring, Estimate: $5,000-7,000

Lot 54638: A French Victorian turquoise and diamond bracelet (once owned by Shirley Temple), Estimate: $4,000-6,000

Lot 54661: A pair of emerald and lapis dangle earrings, Estimate: $1,000-1,500

Lot 54774: An opal inlay bracelet set with tourmaline, Estimate: $2,000-3,000

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WANT MORE? Check out my visit, where I got to try on some of the jewels of Shirley Temple, being auctioned off December 5th!

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Gem Gossip Visits Heritage Auctions in NYC

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

What is so special about all of these pieces?! They were once owned by Shirley Temple! Heritage Auctions has a collection of Shirley Temple’s jewelry that will go up for auction December 5th-6th

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Outside the Heritage Auctions offices in NYC

Heritage Auctions | Gem GossipIMG_2602

I loved getting to preview these jewels before they went up for auction in September’s Signature Sale

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Heritage Auctions is one of my favorites to bid for luxury items because I know they are authentic and what they offer is pretty incredible! I even fell for some of their high-end designer bags!

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

This necklace is 18k white gold by Mattia Cielo and the earring are by Vhernier done in chalcedony. Both were auctioned off in the September Sale.

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Three items from Shirley Temple–this charm bracelet is exquisite, made up of platinum and diamond charms! And wow, these diamond rings!

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

A closeup of the jewels once owned by Shirley Temple–the Tiffany & Co. bracelet was custom made for her, as her favorite color was orange!

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

A fun and flirty lapis drop pendant with added pearls which create a tassel. And yes, I’ve said it before tassels are in! This once belonged to Shirley Temple

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Channeling Wonder Woman with these cuffs by Van Cleef & Arpels. These were gifts from Jackie Kennedy Onassis.

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Feeling these two together, both in Heritage Auctions’ September Signature Sale.

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

A lapis and diamond necklace by Salvador Dali

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

These cuffs sold for over $162,000! Amazing!

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

These Cartier panther earrings are everything!

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

Love the diversity of what Heritage Auctions offers–here are three bracelets, three very different price points and different eras!

Heritage Auctions | Gem Gossip

All my favorite rings from the September Signature Sale–that moonstone is amazing! It is by Paula Crevoshay

Heritage Auctions always has something exciting going on, whether it is a celebrity’s jewels going up at auction or a fun preview touring across the US, or sales taking place at one of their multiple locations of Dallas, NYC, San Francisco, Chicago, Florida, Houston, and Beverly Hills (also a few worldwide). That’s what I like about Heritage Auctions…their ongoing reach at finding pieces to sell is incomparable, they are the experts. The company is a collector’s best friend, as they encourage the hobby of collecting but also want curation to be an important aspect for all collectors, so selling is just as important. Heritage is here to do both of these aspects for you–to help you buy and to help you sell–and their specialized categories are numerous, so whatever you are interested in, Heritage probably has a department for you! I like to focus on jewelry, so for me Heritage is great because not only do they have their Signature Sales, three per year, and Tuesday night auctions, which happen every Tuesday night, so jewelry lovers are fully satisfied.

I visited their headquarters last January in Dallas and got to see the facility first-hand, as well as try on some amazing pieces. This time around when I visited NYC, I got to checkout their east-coast location in the city that never sleeps. Just as suspected, the jewels were incredible and if you want to get excited for an upcoming sale, their December Signature Sale will be an event not to be missed! A lot of the pieces I tried on were from yesterday’s September Signature Sale, where bidders were setting records and auction hammers were flying. A significant lot featuring a pair of matching 18k yellow gold cuffs by Van Cleef & Arpels, were gifted on a wedding day by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis to her step sister and sold for $162,500! Being able to wear them and photograph them myself is an honor in and of itself.

Heritage Auctions continually is a dominant source for designer jewelry–like Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Blvgari, David Webb, amongst many, many others. Their December Signature Sale, slated for December 5th-6th as a two-day event, has numerous designer pieces. But what you may not realize when glancing at a Tiffany & Co. bracelet or a Blvgari suite in that particular sale is who those pieces once belonged to. Heritage Auctions is so excited to be offering the jewels of Shirley Temple in their December sale! There are several pieces, many of which I got to try on in the photos above. Although the stories behind the jewels, like where or who they are from, when did she wear them, what were her favorites, may not be known, the fact that they were once hers make them that much more special.

Take a look at December’s upcoming catalog, more jewelry will be added as it becomes available:

8.43 carat Emerald cut diamond ring set in platinum, once owned by Shirley Temple

Lapis and pearl tassel necklace, once owned by Shirley Temple

Tiffany & Co. orange enamel and turquoise bracelet, once owned by Shirley Temple

Art Deco platinum charm bracelet featuring 15 charms, once owned by Shirley Temple

Matching pair of Blvgari rings, one in ruby and one in emerald, once owned by Shirley Temple


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Heritage Auctions

445 Park Ave #3

New York, NY 10022

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