10 JEWELLERY INDUSTRY TRENDS TO KNOW: LIZA URLA TALK AT FENINJER, SAO PAULO

Brazil, here I come again! Last time I visited Sao Paulo, we shot the campaign for Botanica jewellery collection for Silvia Furmanovich. I am back in Brazil to celebrate my Gemologue: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips book launch with my Brazilian followers and jewellery lovers alike.

Recently, I was invited to give a talk at Feninjer Jewelry Show Brazil – the largest and most important jewellery industry event in Latin America! This month, Feninjer brought together industry professionals, designers and jewellery lovers for the 69th time in Sao Paulo. Along with five other speakers, I shared my knowledge on the current hot topics and trends in the jewellery industry!

I gave a talk followed by a Q&A session about why jewellery should matter today and shared useful jewellery styling tips for photography as well as for accessorising looks. I also talked through some important trends and tendencies the jewellery market is experiencing right now!

Below are 10 current jewellery industry trends we all should be aware of:

DIGITAL & SECOND-HAND

Traditionally reluctant to fully embrace digital retail, manufacturers and retailers are gradually changing their approach, selling directly to consumers, selling online and through second hand jewellery websites. The share of internet jewellery retailing is set to increase further.

TECHNOLOGY

From product development such as 3D printing and to distribution, digitalisation is the most important trend shaping jewellery industry.

SUSTAINABILITY

Consumers and press started to question where jewellery comes from and how it is made — Fairtrade gold, lab grown diamonds, ethically-sourced stones. More and more consumers are curious about the provenance of each piece of jewellery they buy.

SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS

There is growing appreciation of synthetic diamonds. Man-made diamonds, the polar opposite of the organic, benefit the environment, humanity, science and art and are becoming a major concept.

CONSUMER LOYALTY AND CONFIDENCE

There has been an increase in numbers of boutiques, showrooms or pop ups because when it comes to purchasing jewellery consumers want to see and feel before buying. For jewellery brands  and online shops which are primarily online, the main focus is to reinforce consumer loyalty and confidence.

FOCUS NOT ONLY ON MILLENNIALS

While it is important to think about millennials and understand how to keep your business relevant to the next generation of consumers, let’s not forget consumers aged 35-50 have a stronger spending power and desire for authenticity.

SOCIAL PRESSURE

Jewellery sales are set to increase because there is a social pressure to look trendy and good. Social media is playing a major role in this as it makes women more aware of fashion, jewellery and image.

PERSONALISED JEWELLERY

Despite the success of mass-produced high-street fashion, there is a growing demand for personalised and unique jewellery.

AFFORDABLE LUXURY

Demi-fine jewellery and costume jewellery are popular not only among consumers on tighter budgets, but also appeal to the younger jewellery lovers, looking to buy jewellery more often and on-trend.

COSTUME JEWELLERY

The blurring line between fine and costume jewellery using precious metals, refined design and a affordable pricing.

Thank you to all my Brazilian followers and talk guests, who came to support me at this event, I was so happy to see the sparkle in your eyes and your endless enthusiasm for the world of jewellery!

Join me at my next talk I will give together with The Jewellery Cut during London Fashion week on 18th February 2019! Click this link to get your ticket – only a few left!

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post 10 JEWELLERY INDUSTRY TRENDS TO KNOW: LIZA URLA TALK AT FENINJER, SAO PAULO appeared first on Gemologue.

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How to Sweat Solder 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver

For this article, I’d like to show you how to sweat solder 14kt gold soldering ornaments onto sterling silver blanks. Sweat soldering is a wonderful technique to learn. When you sweat solder you have more control of the solder, the heat, and there’s less clean-up. This technique will quickly become a favorite of yours if you’re just starting out.

Adding 14kt gold soldering ornaments really make a sterling silver piece stand out!

Let me first start by saying, that we’ve recently added dozens of soldering ornaments to our inventory. Since normally I work almost exclusively with sterling silver, it has been a lot of fun adding 14kt gold soldering ornaments into the mix. Now, there are many positive benefits to adding these gold findings. The mixed metals look beautiful, it also adds value to your jewelry designs while at the same time, the ornaments are inexpensive to purchase. The combination of these benefits truly makes it worthwhile.

Since I’ve had the opportunity to play around with these new findings, it’s given me plenty of soldering time. The first thing that I needed to decide on was what solder to use, gold or silver? I found both worked well, however, I felt that silver solder looked cleaner around the bottom of the 14kt gold ornament. The faint ring at the bottom of the ornament popped when it was a gold solder but blended when it was a silver solder. Having said that, I did choose the silver solder, but the choice is yours.

The next important choice to make was which solder to use. Since there are several types of silver solder in jewelry which one was the right one? Pallion chips? Wire? Sheet? It all depends on the size of the ornament you are soldering onto. Once it melts the solder spreads, and on an item like our small ornaments you need a tiny piece of solder. So I chose one medium pallion chip for the job.  When melted it spread just enough to create a tiny hump under the ornament and when it spread it created the nice ring around the ornaments edge. If I had chosen wire, the solder piece would have spread too far and forced me to have to clean up the excess solder.

Let’s walk through the steps on how to sweat solder. There’s also a video at the bottom of the article, which shows you the soldering set-up and process as well.

What you’ll need:

  • Torch
  • Pickle
  • Pickle pot
  • Quench bowl
  • Soldering pick
  • Tweezers
  • Copper tongs
  • Soldering board
  • 3rd hands or a tripod
  • Flux
  • Medium Solder
  • Sandpaper (800 grit)
  • Sterling silver blanks
  • Soldering ornaments (14kt gold)
  • and most importantly safety gear (apron and safety glasses)

Sweat Soldering Steps

  1. Clean your pieces with the 800 grit sandpaper, this process will remove any oil and dirt. You will want to sand in the areas where the solder will be. In this case, the solder sits in between the sterling silver blank and the soldering ornament charm. So lightly sand the top of the blank and the bottom of the ornament. Note: Make sure you don’t touch the sanded areas after you’re finished cleaning them. 
  2. Place your ornament upside down on top of a soldering board (clean side up). Placing your solder
  3. Flux, then place a small piece of medium solder in the center of it.
  4. Turn the torch on and begin to heat the piece slowly by moving your torch in a wide circle around the ornament. This will prevent the solder from popping off while the flux dries. If it does pop off just nudge it back into place with the soldering pick. Once the flux turns white, bring the flame in and heat the ornament, keeping your flame moving the entire time. Note: Always hold your torch in your non-dominant hand, and hold the soldering pick in your dominant hand.Melting solder
  5. Once the solder melts (don’t allow it to flow yet), remove the heat and let it air cool. Note: If you are soldering a sterling silver ornament, go ahead and pickle, quench and dry it at this point.
  6. Place your sterling silver blank into a 3rd hand (sanded side up) and raise it high enough to heat it from underneath.
  7. Flux, then begin heating it from underneath. Adjusting with a soldering pick
  8. Using the tweezers, carefully place the ornament (solder side down) onto the sterling silver blank (it should be fairly warm now so use caution). Make any adjustments to the ornament by using your soldering pick. Soldering 14kt gold
  9. Once the solder flows, you will see the ornament drop flat down onto the sterling silver blank or you will see the solder flow just under the ornament.
  10. Let it air cool.
  11. Drop it into the pickle until the firescale is removed and the sterling silver is clean, remove using copper tongs.
  12. Quench it in water and dry.

Shop at Halstead to find all of the jewelry findings and tools listed in this article.

Here are a few inspirational soldering articles :

5 Steps to Start Silver Soldering

Making Chain With Jill MacKay

Soldering Half Round Wire & Pattern Wire For Rings

Instructables Article: Granulation in Jewelry: From Start to Finish

Keep up with our Halstead articles with weekly updates to your inbox!

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The post How to Sweat Solder 14kt Gold to Sterling Silver appeared first on Halstead Jewelry Blog.

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Jewelry Collection Stories: Emily of @GemCircus

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

We are kicking off July with an incredible jewelry collection story from Emily, also known as @GemCircus. If you’re a part of the jewelry Instagram community, you’ll easily recognize some of the jaw-dropping pieces in Emily’s personal collection. From the way she styles her necklace layers, to ring stacks, arm parties, and everything in between, we love her taste and enthusiasm for antique jewelry. I’m so excited she has agreed to share her story with us, so let’s sit back and enjoy:

My love for vintage and antique collecting started when I was a teenager, after my family moved to Vancouver, Canada, from Hong Kong in the early 1990s. I remember it was July when we arrived and I would walk to the nearby library every other day to borrow books to read (our container didn’t arrive almost a month later so all I have in my room were merely a bed, a built-in closet and my backpack). I started to notice our neighbours’ garage sales in my walks and I was amused at the things people were selling – from snow cone machines to music records, jewelry to stuff toys. That summer of looking through other people’s belongings and engaging in rapports gave me a sense of belonging and connection to the community. Ever since then I have become a frequent visitor to community flea markets, thrift shops and antique shows.

My jewelry obsession started around early twenties with vintage jewelry, in particular charms and silver filigree bracelets. I love to style them on mixed metal chains and I still love styling them now.

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

I wasn’t picky and didn’t have a favourite period at that time so I usually picked up quirky little things like brooches, pins, jewel “plaques” (which I found out they were called “clasps” later) etc. Even though my collecting seemed to be random at that time, I was already drawn to jewelry that have motifs, like this brass crescent with hand and arrow and the clasped hand ring that I found in a thrift store. Looking back, I believe my love for antique sentimental jewelry originates from this pair!

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

A lot of my Instagram followers already knew that I adore Georgian and Victorian sentimental and mourning jewelry, as well as portrait jewelry. This probably relates to my “innate sensitiveness” (as Carl Jung coined it) and the way I see jewelry as not merely an adornment but also a medium for expression, an art, an identity of who we are.

After I started reading books on lover’s eye, portrait miniature and mourning jewelry, I became obsessed with researching stories behind the jewelry that I collect. I realized that the brass crescent and the hand motif ring are not ‘funky little things’ as I thought in my teenage days, they actually carry specific meanings – love, new relationship and friendship – in the Victorian era. As my jewelry collection matures over time, I began to search for jewelry with motifs or meanings, like the urn, masquerade (masked lady), hand (figa, clasped hand, claddagh), heart (double-heart, flaming heart), star and crescent, buckle, swallow, snake, fern, acoutistic (“REGARD” and “DEAREST”) and Halley’s comet etc.

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

I like to think that every piece of antique jewelry carries its own story of those before us, and I’m a custodian carrying on its legacy while creating my story with my collection. I love styling and always try to mix and match, experiment with different stacking and mixed metal, and do simple conversions to make every piece wearable. You can see from my Instagram photos that I’ve worn a big opal crescent brooch with another monkey brooch in the middle, stacked seven Art Deco wedding bands to make a statement ring, wrapped my wrist with antique chains and added a micromosaic brooch on top, stacked an Art Deco paste bracelet with a Hermes red enamel bangle, wore brooches on hats, and layered antique gold chains with watch chains. The fun is endless!

I shop everywhere but recently it’s largely online as there aren’t any antique jewelry shops in Hong Kong. I love the Instagram community as I’ve met so many wonderful souls (many of whom have become friends for life) around the world that share my obsession in antique jewelry. I always visit antique and jewelry shops when I travel too. It has been a tradition to bring back a piece of jewelry from each city that I visit.

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

One of my obsession is Georgian masquerade jewelry: masked lady ring with ruby bonnet and rose cut diamonds from @karendeakin.antiques ; locket from @abrandtandson and the most recently acquired oval ring from @bijouxvictim

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

Ring stacking is a daily essential for me: Georgian blue enamel rose cut diamond urn ring from @lenoredailey ; the moonstone on the mourning ring was a gift from my jeweler in Vancouver (he has kept it for 40 years!) and it fits perfectly on the bezel of the once empty mourning ring; flat cut garnet band from @antiqueanimaljewelry

Gem Circus | Gem Gossip

Mourning rings and figas: these enamel mourning rings are too big to wear so I usually wear them on gold chains as pendants. The twin coral figas were acquired from different continents yet they look so much alike. The one with emerald and diamonds was found in a UK auction and the one with seed pearl top was found in an antique show in Vancouver.

xoxoGemGossip

WANT MORE? Check out the other Jewelry Collection Stories

You can follow Emily –> @GemCircus

Source: GossipGem.com

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VALENTINE’S DAY GIFT GUIDE: HOW TO STYLE PEARL JEWELLERY

Let’s celebrate Valentine’s Day this year by pampering ourselves with a little self-love and pearls. Nothing brightens the face quite like the lustrous glow of a pearl. And in the GEMOLOGUE Universe, you’ll find lots of inspiration and pearl style for that perfect gift.

Throughout history, women and pearls have embodied the very notion of glamour and sophistication. With so many symbolic meanings, pearls are hard to neglect. Cleopatra was one of the first women to bring pearls into the spotlight as a symbol of wealth and power. In a bold spectacle of extravagance one night at dinner, she challenged her guests to the most expensive meal ever. She then took off one of her pearl earrings and dissolved it in vinegar before downing the exquisite drink in one go. I’d love to see the look on her guests’ faces at that very moment!

For the women of Venice, pearls were more of a symbol of romance. Brave pearl divers risked their necks looking for these precious gems, just so some beautiful woman could wear a delicate strand of pearls around her fine neck. In later centuries, the women of nobility wore pearls as a symbol of status, elegance and femininity, as noted by the jewellery lovers of my recent Instagram pearl giveaway.

What unites all these stories? For women everywhere, pearls are a celebration of self-love that can instantly put a confident smile and a luminescent glow of delight on your face! So celebrate this year’s Day of Love by spoiling yourself to the special gift of pearls. Pearls can be edgy and give you a look of power and confidence, romance and tenderness, as well as elegance and femininity. A pearl will bring out your best qualities and become a gem of self-expression, whatever that might be. Take a look at all the amazing styles below in the GEMOLOGUE shopping gift guide!

Dainty Pearls

My beloved dainty trend is in full swing! Just check out my Instagram curation! Plenty of Annoushka jewellery with beautiful designs featuring pearls. My favourite is definitely the 18k gold butterfly earrings with pearl drops from the same collection as the necklace I wore for my bridal ceremony! Keep an eye out for Maria Tash, who has been perfecting the art of piercing and jewellery-making since 1993. She has some of the cutest pearl designs available on NET-A-PORTER! And finally, one of my favourite designers, Yvonne Léon. There’s just something fabulously Parisienne about everything she touches. I’m so in love with this ear cuff I’ve added it to my personal collection; it makes me feel playful and beautiful!

Pearl Chokers

Pearl chokers are timeless and modern all at the same time. The first choker I have for you is the  David Morris piece with four flexible rows of graduated cultured pearls. I chose this choker for my Sotheby’s Jewellery Curation. It would make any woman look at herself in a different light. The second choker is the absolutely gorgeous vintage Marina B pearl choker with seven strands of pearls, centered by a geometric onyx and rubellite motif embellished with diamonds. I have a lifetime fascination with Marina B chokers! See for yourself on Moda Operandi! As for the natural pearl designs, look no farther than Azza Fine Jewellery of Bahrain. She has the cutest modern chokers!

Contemporary Pearls

Jewellery design is constantly evolving, so peals will never be old-fashioned. Ana Khouri’s sculptural designs are so innovative, she really thinks outside of the box when it comes to creating new ways to wear pearl jewellery. Her high jewellery collection that I discovered during Paris Couture Week is also worth a look! And what about the pearls from the jewellery brand Mizuki, which I tried on at COUTURE in Las Vegas! The fresh pearl designs took my breath away, and their chokers are to die for! Take a look on Net-A-Porter! Designer Melanie Georgacopoulos adds a surprising and fresh approach to her mother-of-pearl jewellery. Check out her Instagram for the most innovative ideas in pearl jewellery. I’ve even added it to my top Instagram accounts to follow!

Hygge Pearls

The Jewellery Room gives you a dazzling array of contemporary pearl jewels with Scandinavian flavour. You’ll find jewellery designers brimming with stunning and creative pearl jewellery ideas, imagined by only the finest Danish craftsmanship. My Jewellery Room curation features designers like MaryLou, Pernille Lauridsen and Ole Lynggaard. My favourite pearl design is this beautiful shooting star ring. It reminds me of women everywhere who have the confidence to reach for the stars!

Fine pearls

Many of my best-loved fine jewellery brands have some beautiful pearl pieces that are youthful and avant-garde. My favourite is the La Perla collection by Mike Joseph, with its sensual shapes and beauty enhancing qualities. Even high jewellery brand Chaumet that I previewed during Paris Couture Week has recently re-imagined it’s Josephine collection to showcase pearls in an unexpected and magical way!

Fashion pearls

If you prefer your pearls to be in the height of fashion, check the Farfertch pearl section! From my go-to Nicholas Kirkwood pearl shoes to a glowing array of pearl decorated bags, sunglasses and even T-shirts, your inner pearl lover will not be disappointed. If you’re looking for budget-friendly pearl options to celebrate your Day of Self-Love, take a look at some costume jewellery brands like Ellery Jewellery, Chloe and Y Project, which I wore at El Lodge Marbella.

Still thirsty for more Valentine’s Day self-love shopping ideas? Make sure to check out my best places to shop for jewellery online!

Now that you’ve laid your eyes on YOUR perfect Valentine’s Day gift, it’s time to style those pearls! Pearl jewellery can be young, fun, inventive and is anything but old-fashioned or uptight. It’s all about the overall design of the jewellery piece and your attitude to styling it! Don’t be afraid to take risks! Don’t doubt your ability to succeed and show the world the life you live on your terms… in pearls! Inspired by GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips book, here are my top five pearl jewellery styling tips:

Pearl Jewellery Styling Tips

  1. Mismatch your pearl earrings for endless, creative possibilities. Try wearing one heirloom stud and one contemporary drop earring from any of above brands! Show the world you’re open to new ideas and ready to go against the flow!
  2. Pierce with pearls. From grunge to delicate pierced earrings, put those pearls close to your ears and be surprised at the turnaround in your vibe! No piercings yet? Consider pearl ear cuffs for a more playful look.
  3. Expand your pearl horizon. Love different colours and shades of pearls? Why not mix it up! A classical white strand will shine in a different light if layered with grey, pink or Tahitian pearls! Check my necklace layering guide for tips.
  4. Add a glow to your ring stack. For a unified palette, add grey pearls to a silver stack, yellow or white to yellow metals and pink freshwater pearls to pink metals. Or mismatch it all and add one or more pearl rings for dainty perfection!
  5. Get trendy in pearls. One of the growing trends is adding pearls to jewellery pieces in subtle, intricate and intriguing ways. Watch out for pearl drop chokers, floating minimalist rings and phalanx or two/three finger rings!

Happy Valentines Day! Now you’re ready to celebrate self-love in style! When was the last time you gave yourself a gift? Let me know in the comments below!

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

SHOP MY FAVOURITE JEWELRY ONLINE:

Click Product to Zoom Fred Leighton Cushion Cut White Topaz Collet Drop Earrings

Click Product to Zoom Fred Leighton Cushion Cut White Topaz Collet Drop Earrings

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Photographed by Julia Flit. Styling and art direction by Liza Urla. All photos and videos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post VALENTINE’S DAY GIFT GUIDE: HOW TO STYLE PEARL JEWELLERY appeared first on Gemologue.

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JEWELLERY STYLING TIPS VIDEO: HOW TO STYLE STATEMENT JEWELS WITH VERDURA

If you are looking for jewellery styling tips and inspiration, I have it covered. Welcome to GEMOLOGUE jewellery styling video series: chic jewellery looks to inspire you based on the top tips from GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips book. Time to share beautiful jewellery in action!

1st Jewellery Look – Coco cuffs

The highlight of this look is undoubtedly the gorgeous Fulco Verdura Theodora Cuff created for Verdura’s 75th Anniversary. Inspired by the original Maltese Cross Cuffs that Verdura designed for Chanel in the 1930s, they create an empowering black look! Keep in mind: when you’re wearing big statement cuffs, keep the rings to a minimum (just like I did with one simple Copa Ring in black jade and 18k yellow gold). Italian style black onyx shell earclips are perfect to complete this statement look.

The “Theodora” Cuff, Verdura
Yellow Gold And Black Jade “Copa” Ring, Verdura
Small Black Onyx And Citrine Flat Turban Shell Earclips, Verdura

2nd Jewellery Look – Floral cabochons

Cabochons are what makes this look striking! Matching Stardust Earclips with diamonds and blue star sapphires to beautiful diamonds and fourteen oval cabochon sapphires in Hyacinth Bracelet. Growing up with an exotic garden in Sicily, Verduraa was awed by plant life, later incorporating favourite species in his jewellery designs. Finish off this floral look with an array of cocktail rings if you’re up for an occasion, or go without them for a more relaxed style.

Pair Of Blue Star Sapphire And Diamond “Stardust” Cluster Earclips, Verdura
Sapphire, Gold And Diamond “Hyacinth” Bracelet, Verdura
Gold, White Topaz And Pink Tourmaline “Candy” Ring, Verdura
Yellow Gold, Cabochon Star Sapphire & Russian Emerald “Mosaic” Ring, Verdura
Gold And Sapphire “Basketweave” Ring, Verdura
Vintage Kunzite, Diamond, Gold And Platinum “Two-Blades” Ring, Verdura

3rd Jewellery Look – Golden madness

Mixing metals is very en vogue, however if you go for large statement pieces make sure the metals match! Wearing all yellow gold jewels for my third jewellery look, the matching Verdura caged ring and bracelet are my favourites – inspired by rope work of fishermen nets and willed with faceted rock crystals. Finishing this look with a statement 18k yellow gold Lily Bracelet adored by Marlene Dietrich back in the days.

Gold And Rock Crystal “Caged” Ring, Verdura
Gold “Lily” Bracelet, Verdura
Gold And Ruby “Medusa” Ring, Verdura
Gold And Rock Crystal “Caged” Cuff, Verdura
Gold And Diamond Basketweave Ring, Verdura
Pair Of Gold, Enamel And Diamond “Star” Earclips, Verdura

Which look of my jewellery styling video is your favourite? Let me know in the comments down below

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

SHOP MY FAVOURITE JEWELRY ONLINE:

Click Product to Zoom Fred Leighton Cushion Cut White Topaz Collet Drop Earrings

Click Product to Zoom Fred Leighton Cushion Cut White Topaz Collet Drop Earrings

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Styling and art direction by Liza Urla. All photos and videos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post JEWELLERY STYLING TIPS VIDEO: HOW TO STYLE STATEMENT JEWELS WITH VERDURA appeared first on Gemologue.

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Learn Sawing From Our 2019 Featured Metalsmith, Julie Sanford

The new year is here and so is the new Halstead Catalog. The 2019 catalog features many of our best-selling items and new additions from 2018. Most of the items are shown at actual size to really help your planning process. As you flip through the pages, you’ll find informative articles as well as information on recommended jewelry schools and events around the country.

Here at Halstead, we love to provide support to help small businesses succeed. Our annual grant is the highlight of our year as we get to see all of the talented up and coming jewelry artists living out their dream. The 2018 grant winner was Emily Shaffer and you’re definitely going to want to check out her feature in the catalog as well as the Top 10 finalists.

Each year we also like to introduce you to the work of amazing established artists. This year, we’re showcasing Kris Schaible as our featured lampworker and Julie Sanford as our featured metalsmith. Look for them in the pages of your new catalog.

Meet Julie Sanford

Julie Sanford of Studio JSD - 2019 Halstead Featured Artist
Julie Sanford of Studio JSD

Award winning metalsmith Julie Sanford grew up in Kalamazoo, Michigan. She always had an interest in rocks and jewelry. Her dad was a serious rockhound who did lapidary work, silver jewelry fabrication and made a living electroplating organic jewelry components. He passed away at age 39 when Julie was 16. She was devastated. She decided all she wanted to was become a jewelry maker so she could use his tools, metals and stones that he collected and cut by hand.

Julie’s education includes a Bachelor of Arts in Art Education from Western Michigan University. She also completed studies at The Kalamazoo Institute of Arts, the Oxbow Summer Program of the Chicago Institute of Arts, Kendall College of Art and Design and The Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco.

Julie has been creating quality bench-made jewelry for over twenty five years. She enjoys combining organic elements and textures with contrasting contemporary details creating one of a kind pieces that are fabricated, soldered, fused, formed, hammered and reticulated with various metals, final finishes and extraordinary gemstones. Her work is featured in galleries, books, magazines and museum stores.

Julie’s teaching experience includes visual art classroom instruction with an emphasis on curriculum integration, art history, ceramics and jewelry. Julie also has extensive experience leading jewelry related classes and workshops at national trade shows and conferences, technical schools, universities, private studios and galleries.

Studio JSD

Pendant by Julie Sanford
Pendant by Julie Sanford

In 2007, Julie moved her home studio to an 800 sq. ft. commercial space and called it Studio JSD. She grew out of her little basement area and wanted a public space to teach classes. Since then, Studio JSD has evolved, grown and relocated twice. In 2015, they purchased the amazing 3500 sq. ft. space where they are currently located in Grand Haven, MI.

Julie is an artist within Studio JSD. The studio supports an exciting, vibrant, living, growing community of makers as well as local and regional instructors, artists and students. They support two private studios, 6 bench rentals, and 20 instructors with more than 100 class sessions and hundreds of students. The studio is about the people in the community, their stories and their journeys as makers.

Along with her successful jewelry design business, Julie is also the director of Studio JSD and serves as Vice President of The Michigan Silversmiths Guild.

Julie’s Top 10 Tips for Jewelry Piercing:

  1. Have a sturdy bench pin.
  2. Wear proper protective eyewear.
  3. Relax your grip on the saw.
  4. Go slow and steady – don’t push into the metal.
  5. Breaking a saw blade isn’t the end of the world.
  6. Use cut lube, beeswax or even regular candle wax on the blade to make cutting smoother.
  7. Use pliers to grab a blade from the center of a new pack.
  8. Angle blade teeth down toward the saw handle when you reload a blade.
  9. Tension on the blade is good when you have a small “tinging” sound.
  10. Saw straight up and down.

Get all of Julie’s best advice for sawing in the video below:

Connect with Julie

www.juliesanforddesigns.com

IG: @juliesanforddesigns

Facebook: Julie Sanford Designs

Studio JSD : www.studiojsd.com

The post Learn Sawing From Our 2019 Featured Metalsmith, Julie Sanford appeared first on Halstead Jewelry Blog.

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SIX ENGAGEMENT RING TRENDS YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS

Modern couples are chartering exciting new territory in their search for the perfect engagement ring. Long gone is the belief of following tradition and choosing a classic white or yellow diamond engagement ring. Instead, the search for something different is as important as the design itself.

Choosing an engagement ring is a very personal experience. Some of my GEMOLOGUE followers know exactly what they want, while others haven’t a clue or yearn to be surprised.

Your engagement ring is probably the most important piece of jewellery you’ll ever wear, so let me share with you my own experience, as well as the latest trends right now.

My fiancé proposed to me last year in the most romantic city on earth, Venice. Six months later, we were married and had an intimate wedding ceremony on the beaches of the Maldives. For the past ten years, I’ve had a particular engagement ring in mind and I shared my thoughts with my husband. I told him I knew exactly what I wanted – a cushion-cut, yellow diamond, centre stone, framed by micropavé diamonds and set on a micropavé band. If you know exactly what you want, don’t be afraid to tell your future husband or his jewellery designer. It will take a load off his mind and make you the happiest woman alive!

My second choice was a trendy, fashion-forward, open setting like the rings from the Repossi collection. Less formal than a solitaire, Repossi rings make more of a statement. Their open designs combine different cuts of gemstone, as well as different colours in one ring.

A Modern Take On Traditional Engagement Rings

Maybe your choice of engagement ring is dependent on cultural influences. In Brazil, where my husband grew up, it is traditional for the bride and groom to wear plain gold bands with no centre stone. So why not stick with cultural heritage but put a spin on it and go for a stackable engagement ring. Pile on as many bands as you want to represent different milestones with your hubby. Or consider two crown-shaped bands that fit together to form a larger ring is definitely a strong trend in engagement rings right now. Wear one band to show off the design or both bands for a more ornate look.

The same tradition exists in my home of Russia. I still have my parents’ gold, eternity rings as a keepsake.

The traditional look isn’t for everyone. Today’s brides-to-be want an engagement ring with an aesthetic to match their unique personalities, a statement ring. Consider an asymmetrical design. It’s one trend gaining real momentum right now.

Consider A Bespoke Engagement Ring

Our generation loves the entire shopping experience of finding the perfect engagement ring, almost as much as the ring itself! Couples love to visit the jeweller’s workshop and meet the people behind the brand and see the craftsmanship that goes into a beautifully designed ring. Recently, I organised such an experience for a client at the Graff workshop in London’s Mayfair. This kind of in-depth experience makes the purchase much more memorable and extra special.

Men shop for engagement rings differently than women. Some of them prefer online shopping because it’s convenient, and you can easily compare prices while educating yourself about carat, clarity, cut, and colour. There’s so many options online. You can shop for engagement rings from existing collections like those offered by Vashi, London. It’s also not uncommon for couples to start with the perfect gemstone and design the ring together after the proposal.

There’s no right way or wrong way. Just make sure you leave yourself enough time. My engagement ring is engraved with the date, 01.01.2017, as my finance was planning to propose in the Maldives on New Year’s Eve, but he’d ordered the ring from NYC and didn’t receive it in time. So he waited another three months before finding the perfect moment in Venice. He was so happy after I said, ‘I do’, that he didn’t have to carry that ring around in his pocket any longer and live with the fear of losing it! Some of my favourite handcrafted engagement rings are from Buccellati, but a bespoke ring can take as long as three months or longer to finish, so plan well in advance.

What About Antique Engagement Rings?

There is strong demand for antique engagement rings right now. From Art Deco to Edwardian and Victorian styles, an antique engagement ring or heirloom like this is excellent value, not to mention environmentally conscious. So much better than synthetic diamonds.

For some cultures, there are mixed feelings about antique engagement rings. From the energy aspect, rings with hundreds of years of history can give off negative vibes for some. But if you love the style, many brands offer antique settings with a modern twist like Jessica McCormack. Always a luxurious experience and using the best diamond dealers, Jessica McCormack recently launched their first engagement ring and bridal collection. And if you’ve already chosen your engagement ring, you’ll want to check out their line of Party Jackets. “What could be more fabulous than a diamond wearing a diamond!” These rings open up a whole new way of dressing up your engagement ring to give you a different look, and make the ideal anniversary gift.

Coloured Diamonds And Gemstones

I’ve always dreamed of a pink diamond but I was very fortunate to find a beautiful fancy yellow diamond engagement ring. Many brides want a little colour in their jewels and prefer sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and even morganite, a more affordable alternative to pink diamonds. This form of beryl (the same mineral as emeralds and aquamarines) comes in an array of pastel pinks. Synthetic pink diamonds is another affordable option and as demand for these grows, the price will drop.

Though diamonds last forever and are more durable for everyday wear, you can add colour by choosing the right setting. A trilogy setting with three stones representing the couple’s past, present and future, is one idea worth considering. A beautiful emerald banked by two diamonds is a good look. Sapphires are my favourite and loved by the Royals. Just look at Kate Middleton’s gorgeous 12-carat sapphire engagement ring.

Two Engagement Rings

Some lucky women are fortunate enough to own two engagement rings – one for more formal occasions and the other for work and play. In some countries, opulent jewellery larger than one carat is considered inappropriate for the corporate world, so two engagement rings makes a lot of sense. Learn which engagement rings are worn by my gem squad! 

Floral Motifs And Other Trends

Engagement rings are blooming right now with flowers, petals, vines and other natural motifs. Leaf detailing adds whimsical detail to a classic setting.

More modern couples are choosing smaller centre stones in a simple setting for a dainty and feminine feel.

Another modern look that I love is hexagonal halos and unique designs like those from NYC-based Eva Fehren, whose jewellery I had a chance to present in London.

I hope my tips and trends will help you find your perfect engagement ring. Would love to hear about your proposals and engagement rings. Share your story with me on Instagram @GEMOLOGUE.

I am extremely happy to announce that my new jewelry book – GEMOLOGUE: Street Jewellery Styles & Styling Tips – is now on Amazon. I’m so excited. It’s the first book of its kind solely dedicated to jewellery. 

You can sign up for GEMOLOGUE newsletter below and I also share  jewellery on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook  and Youtube if you’d like to connect, or feel free to say hello [email protected]

SHOP MY FAVOURITE JEWELRY ONLINE:

Click Product to Zoom Fred Leighton Cushion Cut White Topaz Collet Drop Earrings

Click Product to Zoom Fred Leighton Cushion Cut White Topaz Collet Drop Earrings

GEMOLOGUE jewelry blog by Liza Urla is a celebration of fine, fashion and vintage jewellery featuring talented jewellery designers, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews. This jewellery blog’s goal is to encourage and educate about jewellery online in a fresh and original fashion to inspire women and men across the globe in a fashion and travelling context.

Jewellery blogger, writer Liza Urla, the founder of GEMOLOGUE, is a London-based and NYC-educated gemologist, who has travelled to and lived in many countries. She is now one of the most influential digital jewellery tastemakers. Her jewellery influence has been acknowledged by Financial Times, The New York Times, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar.

*Photographed by Julia Flit. Styling and art direction by Liza Urla. All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE.

Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post SIX ENGAGEMENT RING TRENDS YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS appeared first on Gemologue.

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THE JEWELS OF LITTLE H, PEARLS FILLED WITH CARATS OF LUSCIOUS GEMSTONES, JCK 2017

The Jewels Of… is a new series by GEMOLOGUE, featuring my latest discoveries from the world’s most exciting jewellery designers and their spectacular creations – stunning jewels you will want to add to your own personal jewellery collection. Discover why I love The Jewels Of Hisano Shepherd, creator of Little H pearl jewelry.

THE DESIGNER:  Hisano Shepherd launched Little H in 2011. Based in Los Angeles, Shepherd cuts and polishes the pearls, and sets the gemstones within. Shepherd grew up between Los Angeles and Tokyo, and has a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Metalsmithing, as well as a Master’s Degree in Jewellery. Her innovative and provocative pearl designs showcase her artistic side and delicate craftsmanship. Pearls are close to Shepherd’s heart, much like her husband who also works with pearls.

THE DETAILS:  Pearls are one of the most exciting jewels of the sea and Hisano Shepherd has a unique approach to working with them! In Little H  Grotto and Finestrino collections, Hisano Shepherd carefully slices each cultured pearl, revealing an opening that she smoothes out and fills with carats of luscious rubies, diamonds, or sapphires of all colors, shapes and sizes. Inspired by nature’s own geodes and imagining wondrous, little caves full of precious jewels, these luxurious pieces are one-of-a-kind.

“I create pearl jewelry that’s unique and intimate. Every piece is one-of-a-kind and the gemstones are selected to complement a pearl’s shape, color and luster. I strive to create pieces that invite you in to take a closer look,” Hisano Shepherd

WHY I LOVE IT:  Little H pushes the boundaries of what we expect from pearl jewellery, her pieces are unique but still very wearable. Hisano Shepherd uses reclaimed stones from vintage jewellery in her creations and combines pearls with gemstones and crafts them into unusual shapes and designs.

 SHOP THE STORY:

Little H Ruby Grotto Pendant

Little H Ruby Grotto Pendant

Little H Ruby Grotto Earrings

Little H Ruby Grotto Earrings

Little H Finestrino White Gold Pendant

Little H Finestrino White Gold Pendant

Little H Sapphire Grotto Ring

Little H Sapphire Grotto Ring

Little H Ruby And Seed Pearl Necklace

Little H Ruby And Seed Pearl Necklace

Little H Sapphire Grotto Earrings

Little H Sapphire Grotto Earrings

Little H Ruby And Seed Pearl Necklace

Little H Ruby And Seed Pearl Necklace

GEMOLOGUE by Liza Urla features exquisite global discoveries, trendy urban street style, exclusive interviews and rare jewellery reviews – a celebration of fine jewellery, fashion jewellery and vintage jewellery.*

Styling and Art Direction by Liza Urla.

All photos belong to GEM Kreatives for GEMOLOGUE. Material on this website may not be copied, broadcasted or adapted without written consent.

The post THE JEWELS OF LITTLE H, PEARLS FILLED WITH CARATS OF LUSCIOUS GEMSTONES, JCK 2017 appeared first on Gemologue.

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The Top Jewelry Trends Seen at Couture 2017

Yael Sonia | Gem Gossip

After acclimating to normal life, and when I say normal I mean not having to take 700+ photos per day while meeting one jewelry designer after the other all while trying to look like I haven’t just slept for 4 hours and only eaten a diet that could sustain a person for a brief moment, I am happily enjoying my quiet reflection time from the Couture show. Happy to be tucked away in laid back Nashville, far from the dry air, noisy crowds and thick cigarette smoke of Vegas. But don’t get me wrong, there is a large part of me that absolutely loves everything about Vegas Jewelry Week--including all that is complained about.

One of my most favorite things to do when Couture is over is go through all my photos, take in all that I just saw and narrow down all the goodness into a small list of top jewelry trends. It is no simple task and I like to keep my trend categories somewhat pinpointed, so they are not so broad. Tracking trends and observing how these trends evolve is some science mixed with a heavy dose of anthropology, and no I don’t mean the lifestyle/clothing store.

So here are the five jewelry trend categories I’ve come up with that were the most dominate in the best way possible from Couture 2017. They are in no particular order and are illustrated using just ONE example of designers I had appointments with–there are several other pieces and designers that also captured these top jewelry trends too!

Jane Taylor Jewelry

1. Rainbow Waves:

I was seeing SO MUCH rainbow around Couture; color everywhere! I was totally loving it. This trend was best exhibited by Jane Taylor Jewelry whose designs get more and more colorful every year. Every ROYGBIV fan out there can spot the gemstone that represents each spectral color. Designers are embracing color and incorporating all colors into their designs. Buyer and jewelry lovers are searching for pieces that are vibrant, colorful and play off one another while still displaying a rainbow of hues.

Lydia Courteille | Gem Gossip Lydia Courteille | Gem Gossip Lydia Courteille | Gem Gossip

2. Shoulder-Duster Statement Earrings:

We’ve seen earrings trend all across the board in the past few years–from simple studs, to ear jackets, to ear climbers/crawlers…even ear cuffs. This year was all about the bold, shoulder-dusting statement earrings. Long in length, sleek in style, and statement-making in their own right. Above, I clearly saw some great examples of this trend at Lydia Courteille. These pieces were quite breath-taking and feature her signature black rhodium and rainbow of gems (which ties in with the first trend). I love Lydia’s gem choices and color combinations. We recommend this trend with pulled back hair and no necklaces.

Yael Sonia | Gem Gossip

3. Modern Geometric:

Perhaps one of my favorite trends, the modern, sculptural pieces that have a hint of geometry to them. This trend is easily showcased best by Brazilian designer Yael Sonia. Her designs exude a futuristic feel, very 3017. She uses Brazilian gemstones and each item is handcrafted in Brazil. I love the 3D cubes, spheres and the use of movement that is also incorporated into her pieces.

Zoe Chicco | Gem Gossip

4. Gold Wire Necklaces:

Chains took a backseat this time around at Couture–it was all about the solid gold wire. Whether it was plain or decorated in gemstones, the wire collar can exquisitely flatter any neckline, all while making a statement. I think the gold wire has gained popularity lately because it almost resembles a choker, has the same capabilities as a regular chain, yet it is heavy, rigid and substantial. Above, one of my favorite gold wire collar necklaces found at Couture 2017–this one is by Zoe Chicco and features bezel set diamonds of various cuts set throughout the piece. It is elegant and edgy at the same time! So good!!

Sydney Evan | Gem Gossip

5. Charms:

I was not expecting charms to be such a highlight and hit at Couture 2017, but they totally were and as a charm collector, I was loving all the interpretations I was seeing! Each designer had their own take on charms–their own motifs and ideas came to life in colorful and gem-set renditions. The most well-known being the Gemfields x MUSE collaboration charm necklace, as people are STILL talking about it! I loved Sydney Evan‘s charms (shown above) as they were quirky, fun and very colorful. Her signature motifs, like the evil eye, the word “Love,” wishbone, lips, etc. were brought to life as charms. The trend is great for many reasons–low price points, easy to collect, and the wearer can choose to wear them any way they want!


Couture 2017

Want more? See my top picks from last year’s show!

Thanks to Gossip Gem

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